FC Seoul v Suwon Bluewings, Sunday 4th November 2012, 2pm

November 15, 2012

Seoul against Suwon is the biggest game in the K-League. On one level it’s a continuation of the rivalry that existed between Anyang and Suwon before Anyang had their team nicked, relocated and re-branded as FC Seoul. On another, it’s a clash between the two teams with the largest support in Korean football and a corporate showdown between Samsung and GS.

Surprisingly, I’d not been to a game between the two clubs so far and after watching a match with only twenty one spectators the previous day I thought I’d get myself along to Sangam Stadium for what would potentially be the biggest crowd I’d seen in Korea outside of those found on a hiking trail in Autumn.

Jen and I took the subway to the World Cup Stadium station on line six and picked up a couple of 14,000 won tickets for the Suwon end. Whilst I like the atmosphere of a fullish ground, I also like a bit of space and thought that there would be plenty of room in the upper tier of the away section.

I was right, every seat in that section was empty. They were empty because the upper tier access had been taped off. The home officials must have decided that with the lower tier being sufficient for Suwon’s two thousand strong travelling support there was no point opening the area above. It was certainly a decision that the cleaners would have welcomed as Suwon fans like to make a bit of a mess. As the teams came out thousands of pieces of coloured card were thrown in the air. Some kids made a point of hanging on to them to take home to draw on, but most were more than happy to launch them skywards.

Suwon fans making a mess.

The empty upper tier above me wasn’t the only part of the ground with plenty of spare seats. The west stand to my left had only a couple of thousand fans in the lower tier and an almost empty upper section. The north stand that the home supporters favour was busy in the middle downstairs, but the wings and upper tier were virtually deserted.

The west and north stands.

The east stand had maybe ten thousand people in it, mainly in the lower tier, but even when a section of crowd looks reasonably full from a distance you just know that a significant proportion of the seats will have been commandeered for coats, boxes of fried chicken or manbags. I’d estimate that the game kicked-off in front of fifteen thousand fans and as the latecomers arrived probably reached a peak of twenty thousand, maybe twenty five thousand absolute max.

The north and slightly busier east stand.

It was disappointing really as I’d been hoping for the place to be heaving. The attendance was announced as 40,510 which was ludicrous. You could have fitted the entire crowd into the east stand if necessary.

As far as the football went, I thought Suwon were the better team in the first half and they deservedly took the lead mid-way through it when Lee Sang Ho squeezed home a shot that almost hit both posts before creeping over the line. We got another flurry of cards thrown in to the air by the jubilant visiting support.

One – nil to the visitors.

Suwon’s momentum stalled a little just before the break when defender Yang San Min picked up a second yellow. It sparked the usual protests but I was down the other end and didn’t see it well enough to have an opinion either way.

Suwon go a man down.

Seoul came more into the game in the second half, although it didn’t look like they were going to score. Their fans weren’t discouraged by being a goal down and they kept up their support throughout. There were a group togged up in black that spent most of the game with their backs to the pitch leading their fellow supporters in the various chants. Each to their own, but I wouldn’t want to have to watch the highlights when I got home to find out what had gone on at a match I’d been to.

FC Seoul fans.

Seoul did eventually make the breakthrough when with four minutes to go substitute Jung Jo Gook timed his run perfectly to beat the offside trap and lift the ball over the advancing keeper.

Initially the Suwon players didn’t have too many complaints about the flag staying down but once someone had seen a replay on either the big screen or on a monitor in the dugout they were outraged. At one point it looked as if their coach was calling them off the field in protest at the perceived injustice. Eventually order was restored and the remaining minutes were played out for a one-all draw.

Despite getting it right the linesman got plenty of slaver.

The single point for Seoul allowed Jeonbuk to close the gap in the title race to five points. It seems a lot but those two teams still have to play each other at Sangam before the season is out. Jeonbuk won’t bring as many fans as Suwon did, so it will probably be a sub-twenty thousand crowd. There’ll be  be a lot less sweeping up afterwards though.

Central Seongam v Eunhye, Saturday 3rd November 2012, 3pm

November 13, 2012

I feel a bit of a fraud even writing about this one as I only watched about ten minutes of the match. I took a few photos though and in the interests of completeness I may as well post them up. After all, I don’t want to be racking my brains in a few years time trying to recall which was the game with the overweight goalie lying flat-out in his six yard box after making a save with his nuts. If I write it down then there’s a fair chance that I might find it and remember.

I’d been on my way to the Challengers League game between Namyangju United and Seoul Martyrs at the Namyangju Sports Complex when I noticed a match going on at one of the nearby practice pitches. It looked as if there was a tournament taking place as there were plenty of players in the stands and a decent crowd, mainly wives I’d imagine.

I stopped to watch for a few minutes and then with kick-off approaching in the ‘proper’ game I moved on and left them to it. Once the Challengers League game was over I could hear that something was still going on and so this time I went and had a closer look.

Namyangju Sports Complex practice pitch.

It turns out that it was a tournament for local church teams. The game that I’d seen taking place a couple of hours earlier had been one of the qualifying matches and they were now half-way through the final.

Central Seongam, in white, were taking on Eunhye in the blue and black kit. The artificial pitch had a couple of small stands, both on the same touchline and I suppose just really an extension of the manager’s dugouts.

One of the two stands.

There were about eighty people watching, four times the crowd that had just taken in the six-all draw in the Challengers League game fifty yards away. A lot of them will have been player’s wives, urging their blokes on with a fervour that you rarely see from the likes of Victoria Beckham.

The WAG’s took an afternoon off from shopping.

As to the score, I’ve no idea. I watched for about ten minutes and saw a goal at the Eunhye end, possibly helped by the keeper not having fully recovered from effects of his earlier save. It was end to end stuff and Eunhye came close to getting one themselves.

Eunhye on the attack.

The ten minutes that I spent watching were enough for me to see everything I needed to and so I called it a day and made my way back to Yangjeong subway station for the journey home.

Namyangju United v Seoul Martyrs, Saturday 3rd November 2012, 2pm

November 12, 2012

The final round of matches in the Challengers League took place this weekend and in a perfect piece of scheduling the two worst teams in the league took each other on. Seoul Martyrs have lost every game this season bar one, a draw against Jeonju EM back in August. They have conceded double figures in a game four times, the highlight of which was a seventeen nil thrashing by Pocheon a fortnight ago.

Hosts Namyangju have fared a little better with two wins and six points to their name, the last of which came seventeen games ago in the reverse fixture with today’s visitors. As a form guide, Pocheon only managed to put twelve past Namyangju when they met so I suppose we could say that a home victory was the most likely of the outcomes for this final game of the season.

When titans such as these collide you have to be there and so I caught the subway to Yangjeong. If you look out of the right-hand side of the carriage window as you approach Yangjeong you can see the floodlights of the stadium at Namyangju Sports Complex. I just about managed to keep them in sight until the train came to a halt.

Through the train window.

If you come out of exit two, you should be able to see the floodlights in the distance. There’s a map at the exit that helps as well. All you have to do is follow the general direction of the main road, keeping one eye on the stadium and the other on the traffic.

It looks easy enough.

It’s quite a scenic route in a way, passing a few farms, but there are sections where the path runs out and you have to walk along the edge of a busy road. After about twenty minutes you need to veer off to the left. By this time you will probably have lost sight of the floodlights but the stadium isn’t too far away and before long it comes fully into view.

Nearly there.

There are a couple of other pitches nearby and I briefly paused to watch a game on one of them before making my way through the main gates of the Namyangju Stadium. There weren’t many people there and I wondered for a moment if the game had just finished. I checked with the fourth official who was standing at pitchside and he confirmed that it would definitely start as scheduled in five minutes time at two o’clock.

The stand with the most roof.

The stadium is quite nicely situated in a wooded area, with some hills in the background. I sat in the main stand which has seating for about five hundred people whilst on the opposite side of the pitch a partially covered stand that curves around a little way towards each goal has the potential to hold another couple of thousand fans.

Unfortunately the crowd was nowhere near the capacity of the ground and as the sides kicked off I counted twenty one people in attendance. There might have been twenty two depending upon whether or not a bundle to my left was a sleeping baby or someones shopping. Namyangju were in blue and black stripes, whilst Seoul were in red. The artificial pitch was covered in leaves, presumably real, but I didn’t check.

Five minutes into the game Seoul Martyrs striker Shin Wyun Seop took the ball on his chest with his back to goal, let it drop and then turned and drilled the half-volley into the net from the edge of the box. Bloody hell. One nil to the Martyrs. The young girls to my right shrieked with delight as Mr. Shin grinned all the way back to his own half.

He’s one happy fella.

A moment later the same bloke broke away and should have put the visitors two up. The excitement must have been too much for him though and he screwed his shot wide.

As expected, Seoul’s lead didn’t last long. Namyangju won a corner when a shot from outside of the box smacked the Martyrs keeper in the chops before deflecting wide. In the mayhem that followed the corner Park Young Men was able to blast home the equaliser from a yard out. I know that doesn’t sound like a real name but I’m assured that it is. As an after note Jen has students named Dong Suk and Bum Suk, so I suppose being called Young Men isn’t as bad as it could have been.

One all.

The third goal came after ten minutes when Namyangju’s Kim Jong Chul lobbed the keeper to put his side in front. Within a minute Namyangju had pulled another goal ahead when Park Young Men got his second of the game toe-bopping one home from about six yards out.

Seoul didn’t seem daunted by the Namyangju flurry of goals and went straight down the other end and made it five goals in the first twelve minutes as Kim Beom Soo tucked away a rebound from a parried shot. By my reckoning that was three – two to Namyangju.

Three-two.

It had been hard work keeping up with the scoring, a problem that seemed to be shared by the KFA representative sat behind me. He made a point of popping down to pitchside every now and then to query something with the fourth official. There was that much stuff going on that I’m surprised he risked turning his back on the game for a moment to return to his seat.

Stuff going on.

We had a brief respite from the goalscoring for ten minutes or so before a dummy from Kim Jong Chul allowed Park Young Men to blast home from ten yards and put Namyangju four – two ahead. The pressure of not being ten goals or more down must have been getting to both sets of players as we then had a quick bout of fisticuffs. Most of the outfield players got involved in the pushing and shoving and there were a few punches thrown. Both linesmen weighed in to help break things up and eventually two lads got a telling off and another two picked up a yellow card each.

Get into ’em.

As half time neared the home side brought a sub on. He didn’t get on the pitch as quickly as he would have liked as he had to spend time sticking a number on the back of his shirt with white tape. I’m not sure if he replaced the player wearing number six and had to wear his shirt or whether it was just spare that week. Either way, he had to stick a three on next to the six before he could take the field. He also had to make a smaller number for his shorts which I thought was a little over the top. Whilst I usually get annoyed when I see subs only putting on their shirts or shin pads when called upon, this lad had my sympathy.

Finally ready for action.

There was still some more excitement to come before half-time when Lee Hyun Gi turned his marker and pulled one back for Seoul. It was fortunate timing as the Seoul Ultra had just arrived with his girlfriend and his drum. I don’t know if he’d slept in, got the kick-off time wrong or had struggled to drag himself away from the game between a couple of church sides on the nearby pitch. Whatever, he had missed a great first half.

Sonny and Cher.

A local fella came over to me at half-time and as a consequence of our somewhat limited conversation seemed to get it into his head that I was a scout for Middlesbrough. He disappeared for a while before returning to tell me that his brother was the full back for Namyangju and to give me four chocolate brazil nuts. Maybe he knows how little the Boro has to spend these days.

The second half started off a lot calmer than the first and it was twenty minutes before we got another goal. The ball bobbed around for a while in the Namyangju box before Seoul Martyrs centre half Jang Gyun Hwan hooked it home to make it four each.

Seoul kept it level until fifteen minutes from time. After being brought down on the edge of the box, Namyangju’s Kim Jong Chul took the direct free-kick himself and curled it around the wall and past the keeper who may not have been giving matters his full attention.

Kim Jong Chul takes a break from scoring goals to contest a header.

It looked at that stage as if Martyrs were destined for another defeat but they somehow managed to turn it around in the final few minutes.  Han Gyun Soo lobbed the keeper from a tight angle to make it five each and then when the Namyangju keeper flapped at and missed an inswinging corner Jang Gyun Hwan bundled the ball over the line at the back post to put Martyrs six-five ahead. The ultra was ecstatic, as were the shrieking girls.

Ha. 6-5 to the Martyrs.

In injury time the hosts had a chance to level with another direct free kick from twenty yards out. This time Seoul weren’t going to take a chance on their keeper not watching properly and positioned two men on the goal-line to help him out. This, of course, meant that Namyangju could have a couple of players standing directly in front of the keeper. In the end though, the ball didn’t clear the wall and the ref blew for full time.

The Seoul celebrations at their first win of the season seemed a bit muted. I’d have been turning cartwheels if I’d have been them. If I could turn cartwheels that is. The reason was revealed the next day when I looked the game up online and discovered that the score was listed as six all. Now I’m not the most attentive of blokes, particularly when noticing a new hairdo or frock is concerned, but on this occasion I really was watching closely. My theory is that between them, the Korean FA representative, the ref and the fourth official messed things up.

“Shall we just call it a draw?”

They had been conferring all through the game and I think at some point a disallowed Namyangju goal had somehow been counted. If the teams had been told the incorrect score before the end then that would explain their reaction at the full-time whistle.

As both teams are used to conceding double figures I doubt they have much appetite for keeping score themselves and with so many goals in quick succession I couldn’t blame anyone for getting mixed up.

So, the record books will show that both teams added to their season’s points tally with a draw, Namyangju moving onto seven points and Martyrs doubling their total to finish with two.

Naejangsan Hiking, Sunday 28th October 2012.

November 7, 2012

I haven’t managed as much hiking as I’d have liked this year, partly due to visiting Oman once a month but mainly because of my reluctance to hike in the hot summer whilst carrying more weight than I felt comfortable with. The temperatures are getting that bit colder now though and going for a walk in the mountains is a much more appealing prospect.

Jen and I had been to watch Jeonbuk Motors play FC Seoul the previous day and I’d identified Naejangsan National Park as somewhere that would be easy enough to get to afterwards. When the game finished we took a taxi to Iksan and then caught the KTX to nearby Jeongeup.

I’d marked Jeongeup down as a ‘one-horse town’, probably, I suppose, because it doesn’t appear to have any sporting teams. It’s not necessarily the most logical of assessments but in my book that’s the sort of thing that counts. As even the quietest of towns always have plenty of places to stay though, I was confident of having the pick of the motels around the station.

When we are hiking we will usually book the motel for two nights even when we are only staying for one. It means that we don’t have to check out and carry all of our gear with us and we can return to the hotel for a shower and change of clothes before travelling back to Seoul. It seems a bit extravagant, but with rooms usually costing around forty to fifty thousand won a night it’s not such a big deal.

The first place we tried quoted us 120,000 won per night. I was astonished, especially since we’d be paying double. We tried another motel and they were full. Apparently the ‘one-horse town’ of Jeongeup has a three or four week period in the autumn when it is swarming with visitors keen to see the changing colours of the leaves.

We tried a third motel whilst pondering whether or not we should have stayed in Iksan instead. The motel had one room left and quoted us 80,000 won per night. Despite being twice what they would normally have charged it seemed like a bargain. The room was fairly good too, if a little oddly decorated.

One of the rare remaining rooms in Jeongeup.

It was raining and so we decided not to bother going out to eat, instead getting by on a takeaway of kimchi mondu and kimchi fried rice. The bottles of wine that washed it down meant that we didn’t manage to achieve the early start that we’d planned the next morning and it was after nine thirty before we set off in a taxi for Naejangsan.

It’s a journey that should take around fifteen minutes, but the lure of the leaves caused so much congestion that after half an hour the driver dropped us at a car park a couple of miles from the National Park. There were dozens of coaches, hundreds of cars and thousands of people. It seemed that most of latter were queueing for the shuttle bus that would take them the remaining two miles, despite them being togged up in their best hiking gear.

Lazy gits. The bus is in the distance.

It took us half an hour to walk to the park entrance whilst I suspect that it took those on the bus a good while longer. There was a market at the entrance selling everything from soy beans to twigs for putting in soup. We noticed that a few of the restaurants were roasting half pigs and mentally filed the information for later.

Naejangsan map.

Whilst a lot of the crowd were only there for the shopping, a fair proportion of them kept walking once the stalls had petered out and followed the trail towards a temple and a cable car. There were so many people that marshalls with batons and whistles had to be deployed to keep things flowing. Everytime someone stopped dead in their tracks to photograph the foliage someone else would walk into the back of them and the bottlenecks would build up.

This was once of the quieter sections. Really.

After a further half an hours walking we reached the start of the trail to Janggunbong, a 696m peak a couple of kilometres away. We branched off to the left to follow it and immediately left ninety-nine percent of the crowd behind. Within five minutes we didn’t have another hiker in sight and we encountered far fewer on the way up than you would expect on a normal day’s hiking in Korea.

That’s better.

It was a steep climb and it took us an hour to reach the Yugunchi Pass, which is the start of the main ridge and the place where Korean Master Monk Huimuk gave the Japanese a pasting in 1592. Forty minutes later we got to the Janggunbong summit where the crowds of hikers made it difficult to find a place to stand. I suspect that a lot of them had approached from the opposite direction after taking a ride to near the top in the cable car. It’s a shame that there aren’t any Master Monks around these days to keep the crowds down.

It’s an ideal place for a picnic.

We hung around at the peak for ten minutes or so taking in the views. They were pretty much the only ones that we’d seen all day as the trail never really rises above the tree line, even when on the ridge.

We did think about pushing on to the next peak, but the volume of people made us wary about whether we would have enough time to be able to get back to Jeongeup to catch our train. Besides, there were half pigs being roasted at the bottom of the hill.

View from Janggunbong.

We retraced our steps and a little over an hour later we rejoined the crowds on their way to and from the temple. Despite it being mid afternoon the number of people arriving didn’t seem to be getting any smaller.

Still busy.

We had time for some roast pork before we made our way back to the park gate to flag down a taxi. It took us an hour to cover the distance that we had walked in half that time earlier in the day and then a further thirty minutes to get back to Jeongeup. It’s a journey that would normally take fifteen minutes.

There’s enough for a decent sandwich there.

All in all, it was a good day. The foliage was spectacular if you like that sort of thing and the trail that we took well-marked. It was also great just to get out into the hills again. It would have been a completely different experience though if we’d turned up a month earlier or later and had the place to ourselves.

Jeonbuk Motors v FC Seoul, Saturday 27th October 2012, 4pm

November 1, 2012

I had a couple of options for games this weekend including making the trip across to Gangwon to watch Gangneung, the one remaining National League team that I haven’t yet seen play at home. In the end though I decided to head down to Jeonju to watch Lee Dong Gook’s Jeonbuk Motors take on league leaders FC Seoul.

Both teams had eight games left to play and Seoul were seven points clear of second placed Jeonbuk. The sides still have to meet each other in Seoul before the end of the season but this was a must-win game for Jeonbuk. Or at the very minimum a game that they definitely couldn’t afford to lose.

Jen and I took the KTX south and with plenty of time to spare stopped for a dolsot bibimbap just outside of Iksan station. It’s a dish that mainly consists of rice and vegetables and it is served in a red-hot stone pot. If I can get through it without burning my mouth or my fingers I tend to regard the occasion as a success.

We then took a cab from Iksan to Jeonbuk’s World Cup Stadium. It cost 17,000 won which is a bit more than if we’d travelled on to Jeonju by rail but it saves on the hanging about between trains.

World Cup Stadium

There was still around half an hour to go before the 4pm kick-off when we arrived and we bought 10,000 won tickets for the east stand before making our way to the upper tier. It had been raining on and off all afternoon and I was keen to be under cover.

The Seoul fans were to our left and for a team that were top of the league and the best supported in the country, it was a disappointing turnout. I doubt that there were more than two hundred present. Those that had made the journey got behind their team though and kept up the support throughout.

FC Seoul fans.

It was a fairly poor attendance all around really. In addition to the Seoul fans in the south stand, Jeonbuk had maybe eight hundred ‘ultras’ in the north. There were about the same number in the west stand opposite. I couldn’t see how many people were in the lower east, but I’d be surprised if there were the nine thousand or so that would have been needed to make up the announced 11,681 crowd.

In the home end there were a couple of banners commemorating Jeon Bong Jun, a local resistance leader who was put to death by the Japanese in 1895. He was still outnumbered by the banners of Che Guevara though.

Jeon Bong Jun

I was surprised to see Choi Eun Seong in goal for the home side. The forty-one year old has had a new lease of life since he left Daejeon last year, but regular keeper Kwon Soon Tae has recently returned from his National Service and I’d expected him to re-claim his spot. He didn’t get any closer than the bench though.

The old fella started well, tipping a dipping shot over the bar in the first few minutes, before going on to have a decent game.

Choi Eun Seong

Lee Dong Gook was up front by himself. He’s had a good season overall albeit with prolific runs of scoring being interspersed with some barren spells. That’s how it goes, I suppose. He was recently dropped from the national team for the umpteen time in his career but has responded in the best way possible with five goals in his last five games. One of them was a particularly impressive strike from outside of the box against Ulsan where he chested the ball down with his back to goal before turning and volleying it into the top corner. I don’t remember too many of those from his time with the Boro.

Jeonbuk were busy early on with Eninho curling a shot over the bar when he could probably been a bit less selfish. It was Seoul who took the lead though when a shot from a corner was saved on the line before Sergio Escudero knocked the rebound home.

That was it for the first half, but at the break we were treated to a win a car competition where the four contestants selected a key in turn and whichever one electronically opened the car would take home the prize. After three failures the fourth bloke celebrated by default only to discover that his key wouldn’t work either. They were all too far away.

Everyone moved forward ten yards and tried again. Another four failures. With the teams back on the pitch and waiting to start it just became a random free for all with the contestants dashing towards the car frantically pressing the button on their key in the hope of one of them winning before the ref lost patience and told them all to clear off.

Get closer!!!

An hour into the game Jeonbuk equalised. The ball was floated over the top and Lee Dong Gook slipped his marker before diving to head home. It was his thirtieth goal of the season in all competitions for club and country. That’s twenty eight more than he got for us.

One each.

The home fans celebrated by waving their little banners that I understand translates as a laughing noise. Fair enough I suppose, although with the scores level they were still seven points behind in the race for the title. I’d have thought that Seoul probably had more to smile about.

Yeah, whatever.

Both side had plenty of chances in the final half hour, the best of them falling to Hugo Droguett who managed to flick the ball away from the Seoul keeper before missing the opportunity to put the ball into the empty net. It finished one each and with seven games to go it looks like Seoul will probably take the title.

Paju Citizen v Cheonan, Saturday 20th October 2012, 5pm

October 31, 2012

After watching the match between Jungnang Mustang Chorus and Namyangju United earlier in the afternoon I crossed Seoul on the subway, arriving at Geumchon station just before five o’clock. The game wasn’t scheduled to kick off until seven and so I thought I might as well just walk to the stadium. It’s easy enough, you come out of exit one, cross the road and continue in the same direction along the main road for about twenty minutes.

When the road starts to bear around to the left, take the immediate left down a side street and you’ll stumble across the ground sooner or later.

It’s not quite Ordnance Survey standard but it should get you there.

Paju is only a few miles from the border with North Korea and so I’d expected to see quite a sizeable military contingent. I was wrong in my assumption though and the only uniformed presence I spotted were these two old fellas drinking soju outside of a convenience store. If the North are ever going to make their move, I’d suggest targeting Paju on a Saturday tea-time.

Corporal Jones and Private Godfrey at the ready.

As I got close to the ground I noticed that the floodlights were already on. No real surprise there as the sun was starting to go down and they would need to be on well before kick-off. What was more unexpected was that I could hear shouts, chants and someone blowing a whistle. Oh dear. Either the police were breaking up a demonstration or the game was already underway.There was a gate open behind one of the goals and I walked in to find the match in progress. The scoreboard was showing thirty-seven minutes had been played, hopefully of the first half.

The view from the gate I went in through.

The scoreboard was also showing that the game was level at a goal each. As I hadn’t seen either of them I’ll assume that Paju’s was a screamer from outside the box, similar to the one Emerson scored against Sunderland, whilst Cheonan’s effort was just like Terry Cochrane’s overhead kick against Swansea. Only better.

The stadium is a fairly typical example of a Korean multi-purpose ground. A mainly open bowl with limited covering down one side and a running track separating the spectators from the pitch. An interesting feature of this ground though was the view of some graves up on the hillside behind the goal to my left. It also has a caldron for a flame, which would come in very handy should Jacques Rogge ever decide that Paju would be an ideal choice for staging the Olympics.

Hillside graves.

Paju were in green shirts whilst Cheonan were in orange.  I’d estimate that there were probably around a hundred people there which isn’t bad for a game that had kicked off two hours earlier than advertised. Initially I’d thought that the two sets of half a dozen ultras a hundred yards apart were each supporting Cheonan until I eventually realised that the only home fan to wear any colours had decided to wear his orange away shirt. His green shirt must have been in the wash.

Some of the Paju fans. Most of them actually.

A few minutes after I’d arrived the ref blew for half-time rather than full-time and I was able to sit back, crack open the first can of the day and await the second half. Paju have had a decent first season in the Challengers League but are just starting to slip a bit. I saw them drop two points away at bottom of their section Goyang a few weeks ago and if they really wanted to remain in contention for a play-off spot then they needed to beat a Cheonan team that had nothing to play for.

Both teams had their chances early in the second half, but it was Paju who managed to take the lead on the hour. Cheonan failed to get anywhere near a corner and Kim Su Won headed the home side in front.

Two – One.

Cheonan were still squabbling amongst themselves a couple or minutes later and Paju quickly grabbed a third goal. The sudden capitulation seemed too much for the visitors and their left back was sent off soon after. He stomped off, throwing his shirt down Keegan-style.

The ten men were able to keep the home side at bay for the next quarter of an hour but then Yoon Seok Hyun went through the back of a Paju player and picked up his second yellow to reduce his side to nine men. He was a bit more reluctant to leave the field than his team-mate had been but eventually left after angrily booting a water bottle into orbit.

“It’s so unfair!!”

In the re-organisation that followed, the lad who got subbed showed a similar level of frustration at having to leave the field and he too launched one of the water bottles.

With seven minutes to go Paju striker Yang Hyo Jik somehow managed to nip between a Cheonan defender and the keeper to stroke the ball home and make it 4-1. The beaten keeper Woo Tae Shik must have said something to the ref and he got a straight red for his trouble. Cheonan didn’t have a substitute keeper and so outfield player Kwon Tae Joon had to go in goal. Unfortunately Woo Tae Shik had buggered off with his goalie top and in the absence of a spare, Kwon had to make do with a training bib.

It’s what all the best dressed goalies are wearing this year.

It was still 4-1 when we reached the ninety minute mark and with Cheonan’s remaining eight men obviously well beaten it seemed a bit mean for the ref to add another five minutes on. Paju took the piss a little and missed an absolute sitter before a three against one break led to their fifth. That was enough for the ref to put Cheonan out of their misery and call a halt.

That’s enough.

The win moved Paju up the table from fourth to third and kept their play-off hopes alive whilst Cheonan remained second from bottom.

Jungnang Mustang Chorus v Namyangju United, Saturday 20th October 2012, 1pm

October 29, 2012

My main plan for the day involved watching Paju Citizen play Cheonan in the Challengers league. That game wasn’t due to start until seven in the evening though and so I had enough time to take in the early kick-off game between Jungnang Mustang Chorus and Namyangju United as well.

It’s a one hour ride from Yeoksam to Yangwon subway station. Then if you come out of exit two and turn left, it’s another five minutes walk past the Jungnang Camping ground.

On the subway.

I’d been to see Jungnang play earlier in the year. It was their second game of the season, their first ever season, and life was looking rosy for them. They won that game to make it two victories from their opening two fixtures and I suspect at that time they thought that they would be on for a decent season.

They’ve slipped a bit since then though and you could make a case for them being the third worst team in the third tier. The good news for them today was that they were playing a side that are generally regarded as the second worst team in the league, Namyangju. The visitors had lost all of their previous fourteen games, with their last victory coming as a consequence of being able to face Seoul Martyrs, undisputedly the worst team in Korea.

I arrived just as the teams were lining up for the handshaking. The weather was much nicer than the last time I’d been here, it had snowed then whilst today was a sunny autumnal day.

View from the far corner.

There were about a hundred people watching, mainly old blokes, but the odd family or group of kids. There weren’t any of the fans that you might class as ’ultras’ and so we had no singing or drums. In fact, the only real crowd noise that we got was a collective “Aaiiisshh“ whenever Jungnang missed a reasonable chance.

That’s about half of the crowd.

The opening exchanges were fairly even with both sides showing plenty of intent to get the ball into the opposition box. Namyangju, in black and white stripes, hit the bar after ten minutes whilst Jungnang, in yellow shirts and black shorts, replied in kind a little later.

Jungnang on the attack.

As we approached the half-hour mark Jungnang broke the deadlock when Yoon Pil Joo took advantage of a sloppy Namyangju backpass and rounded the keeper before rolling the ball into the empty net.

A few minutes later the home side doubled their lead. A deep cross towards the back post found some player whose name I don’t know in plenty of space and he finished well as a Namyangju defender desperately tried to get close enough to get a foot in.

Two – nil.

Kim Jong Chul was the pick of the Namyangju players. He’s a slightly overweight striker who you just know will have been the best player at every team he’s ever played for since being a small child. Sometimes though, that’s not enough to make it to the top.

Star of the show for Jungnang was one of their defensive midfielders. I don’t know his name so I’ll just call him Doh Rhee Vah in tribute to one of the less lauded members of the Boro’s Carling Cup winning team. Neat and tidy, he was always there to take a pass or put a foot in. He’s cleverly dyed his hair orange so that when combined with his yellow shirt he can ghost in unnoticed against the autumn foliage backdrop and nick the ball away from an opponent who won’t have seen him coming.

Kim Jong Chul practices his horse dance as Doh Rhee Vah appears from nowhere to steal the ball.

Namyangju kept the score down to two until the sixty fifth minute. A free-kick was floated into their box and it bobbled around for longer than it should have before Jeong Seong lashed it home. Yoon Pil Joo then added a fourth with fifteen minutes to go by cutting in from the left and curling a right-footed shot into the far corner. Someone else got a fifth. I’d given up keeping track by that stage.

That’s how it finished. Jungnang gave their flagging season a timely boost whilst Namyangju extended their losing run to fifteen. The good news for them is that in two weeks time they will get another crack at a Seoul Martyrs side that were beaten 17-0 later in the day. Imagine trying to keep up with the scorers in that one.

And so with my attention turning to Paju v Cheonan I strolled back down to the subway station for the journey across town.

SK Knights v Incheon Elephants, Saturday 13th October 2012, 2pm

October 26, 2012

This weekend saw the beginning of the basketball season. Autumn is almost upon us but it was still a warm sunny day as I made my way to the Jamsil Student Gymnasium for the game between SK Knights and Incheon Elephants.

It was quite busy outside, with plenty of old biddies selling food and drink. I bought a ticket for the second tier, near to the half-way line, for thirteen thousand won.

Chestnuts, gimbap, water and beer.

As the teams warmed up I recognised Aaron Haynes amongst the SK players. He had played for LG Sakers last season. I thought that he’d done ok with them so it was surprising to see him take a step downwards to the team that had finished bottom of the league. SK Knights are now the fourth Korean side that he has played for so I presume that he must like living over here. He went on to have a reasonable game, scoring sixteen points during his time on court.

Aaron Haynes gets the season started.

The second non-Korean player for the home side was Chris Alexander. He’s a 7’1“ centre who also turned out for the Sakers last year. As with his teammate Haynes he’s also been around the world a bit, with stints in China and the Philippines as well as a spell with the USA –D League side Sioux Falls Skyforce. As the second choice non-Korean he only played thirteen minutes but was able to contribute a relatively impressive eleven points.

Chris Alexander collects a rebound.

Carlos Powell was the first choice foreign player for Incheon. He’d played for them a few years ago before returning to Korea this season. If ever the term globetrotter was to be applied to a basketball player outside of Harlem it would be him. Apparently he has played in Portugal, New Zealand, Ukraine, Iran, Israel, China and Germany as well as the USA – D League. He rattled home twenty two points in his twenty seven minutes on court.

Carlos Powell (Number 15)

Fellow American DeAngelo Casto made up the quartet of non-Koreans. He’s only twenty-two and left college a year early to go and play in Turkey last season. He didn’t make as much of an impact as Powell but still contributed six points from his twelve minutes playing time.

So, that’s the introductions out of the way. As for the game itself, it had the most exciting finish I’ve ever seen. In basketball that is, obviously I’m not counting Massimo’s injury time winners against Basel and Bucharest.

As the game went into its final minute SK were a point ahead, 79-78. They managed to keep it that way and with ten seconds remaining Incheon gathered themselves for one last play. Carlos Powell waited until there were only a couple of seconds to go and then drove at the basket. The shot went up, hit the rim and bounced back out. As the players scrambled for the loose ball the buzzer went for full-time, 79-78 to SK Knights.

SK Knights celebrate their victory.

The music started, the streamers were released from the ceiling and the cheerleaders dashed onto the court to celebrate with the SK players. After what must have been around thirty seconds it became apparent that the Incheon players were protesting that one of them had been fouled somewhere in the last play. The officials went over to the fellas sat behind the desks and a few moment later the clock was reset to show 1.2 seconds remaining.

What’s going on here then?

It was SK’s turn to protest at that point, but it made no difference. The cheerleaders had to sit back down and the bloke with the brush came out to sweep up the streamers. Incheon were given the ball at the sideline, it was tossed to a heavily marked Powell who was able to get his shot away just as the buzzer sounded for a second time. It dropped through the hoop. 80-79.

It was Incheon’s turn to celebrate now whilst the home fans didn’t know whether to laugh or cry.

Incheon Elephants celebrate their victory.

The lads sat next to me were just silently shaking their heads in disbelief. It wouldn’t surprise me if that first game of the season also turned out to be their last. As a neutral though, you couldn’t beat it for a finish.

Incheon United v Seongnam, Saturday 6th October 2012, 3pm

October 23, 2012

This weekend was another one of those cut short by a trip to Oman late on the Saturday night and to make matters worse there were no football fixtures scheduled in the National or Challengers Leagues. There were only three games taking place in the top-tier K-League and as two of them were too far away to get back from in time, I was left with Seongnam’s visit to Incheon United.

I took the subway to Dowon and, as I didn’t want to sit in the sun, I bought myself a 12,000 won ticket for the west stand. If I’d been prepared to have the sun in my eyes then I could have got in for 8,000.

Shiny and new.

I wandered around outside for a while and had a look at some of the merchandising stalls. They didn’t seem to be doing much business although a tent at the end of the line where three Incheon players were signing autographs had a queue sixty yards long.

Half of them probably didn’t stay for the match.

There was plenty of room inside the twenty thousand capacity stadium. The official attendance was announced as 3,540 but I’d estimate that there were probably only half that number there at best and maybe even less than a thousand when the game kicked off.

The home fans were behind the goal to my right in the ‘safe-standing’ area. There were almost as many banners and flags as people, but they made a decent effort and sang for most of the game.

Incheon fans.

Seongnam had the open end of the stadium and had brought about fifty fans with them. That is probably more than they have actively supporting their team at their own ground, although I suppose there’s more of a temptation to join in with the singing at away games.

Seongnam fans.

About twenty of the Seongnam supporters were wearing identical tee-shirts. On the back there was a picture of Father Jack with the slogan ‘Feck Off’ underneath and on the front, beneath the badges of FC Seoul and Incheon United were the words ‘I hate these scums’.

Whilst I quite like the idea that Father Jack has a relevance in Korea  fourteen years after Father Ted finished, I find it hard to imagine that either of those teams, FC Seoul in particular, would give a monkey’s about Seongnam or the dodgy tee-shirts worn by their fans.

It seemed such a good idea when they were in the pub.

Football-wise, there wasn’t much to mention in the first half. I’d backed Incheon to win at 13/10 but they didn’t ever look like scoring. Seongnam had a couple of chances on the break but nothing that really caused me any concern.

A random airborne assault.

At half-time I got myself a bag of three hard-boiled eggs to eat. They were the toughest eggs that I’ve ever eaten and I was relieved not to have lost any teeth by the time I’d finished them. I was left wondering if they had bought a large quantity at the start of the season and then six months later been left with a stock surplus when the people of Incheon turned out not to be that interested in football. Next time I’ll just get an ice-cream.

The second half followed a similar pattern to the first, with Incheon having most of the possession, but Seongnam looking the more dangerous with their counter attacks.

This was actually in the first half.

Everything livened up when, with fifteen minutes to go, Incheon’s Son Dae Ho picked up a second yellow. It seemed a bit harsh to me, although had it been his first card I doubt anyone would have complained. I know that’s not how it should be, but it is. He and his teammates argued with the ref for a while, but in the end he had to go.

Gu Bon Sang argues in support of Son Dae Ho.

Dropping down to ten men seemed to spur Incheon on and within a minute they had hit the post. They then forced a good save from Seongnam goalie Jung San. The visitors had a chance or two themselves but in the end it finished goalless.

They all looked devastated at the end. Perhaps their bets were down too.

The result didn’t really matter apart from to those of us who’d had a wager. The mid-season split of the league had left both clubs in the bottom section but without any real threat of relegation and with nothing to play for. In hindsight, I suppose it may not have been the best circumstances to have had a bet.

Orix Buffaloes v Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles, Monday 1st October 2012, 6pm

October 23, 2012

There was no football scheduled for the third day of our Chuseok trip to Japan and so Jen and I took the train to Osaka to watch some baseball. With the game not due to start until six o’clock we had a wander around the city centre first. It’s a pleasant enough place with plenty of bars and restaurants, some of which probably seated no more than half a dozen people. Speaking of small stuff, we spotted a fire engine that looked suspiciously undersized. Maybe it’s for getting cats out of bushes rather than trees.

Or maybe they just have giant firemen.

After lunch  we had a look at Osaka Castle. It’s in a park and if you head up to the top there are decent views of the city in each direction. As with a lot of stuff in Japan and Korea, it’s not original though. Over the five hundred years or so that it has existed it has been rebuilt a few times, usually due to siege damage or someone inadvertently setting fire to it whilst aiming for that scorched wood effect on the skirting boards. Its most recent make-over has resulted in the current version being made from concrete.

Osaka Castle.

There’s only so much culture you can take at a time and once we’d had our fill we took the subway to the Kyocera Dome, the indoor stadium where Orix Buffaloes play a lot of their fixtures. They aren’t very good and went into the game bottom of their six team Pacific Division. The visitors, Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles, have a better record this season and are currently sitting in fourth place.

The ticket prices ranged from 1,700 yen for a seat in the outfield to a top-priced 6,500 yen. As I prefer the outfield, we went for the cheaper option. One of the benefits of sitting in the outfield in Korea is that it is often the quietest part of the ground. The fans who want to sing and bang inflatable sticks together congregate at first and third bases respectively. It doesn’t work like that in Japan though, or at least it didn’t in this game, and as the stadium started to fill up we discovered that the more vocal fans set up camp in the cheap seats.

We were sitting quite close to the Buffaloes supporters. There were a couple of hundred of them and at least four of them had brought their trumpets. They reminded me a little of Spanish football fans who often seem to have a brass section somewhere amongst them.

Orix Brass Band

There were a similar number of Eagles fans to our right. I couldn’t see any trumpets but they made plenty of noise. Surprisingly, to me anyway, the rest of the stadium was very sparsely populated. I know it’s getting on for the end of the season and neither of the teams were in any danger of ending up in the play-offs, but I’d always assumed that Japanese baseball would be played in front of decent sized crowds.

The away fans.

The starting pitcher for Orix was Yuki Nishi. He’s only twenty-one but it’s already three years since he made his Buffaloes debut. I couldn’t find much information on him, but a week after our visit he pitched a ‘no-hitter’ game against Softbank Hawks. He didn’t do as well on this occasion though, conceding two runs early on and seven hits in total before calling it a night after the eighth innings.

Yuki Nishi – Orix Buffaloes

Yasunori Kikuchi opened for the Eagles and he conceded three runs in his lengthy stint, two in the fifth and then the game-clincher in the eighth. I know even less about him than I do Mr. Nishi, but he pulled off a magnificent ‘caught and bowled’ catch. He did it with such apparent nonchalance that it reminded me of an incident from my schooldays. The teacher, who had got a bit pissed off at some kid’s lack of attention, hurled a wooden blackboard rubber at him as hard as he could. A lad who was sitting in front of the intended target just stuck out an arm as the missile passed by him and caught it one-handed without even appearing to look up for his book. He then calmly passed the blackboard rubber back to the teacher with a quietly spoken “Here you are, sir”.

Yasunori Kikuchi – Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles

One fella who did stand out, mainly on account of his size and his Korean name, was the designated hitter for the Buffaloes, Lee Dae Ho. It turns out that he is one of Korea’s best ever baseball players, a former Lotte Giants legend and a KBO MVP. He won a gold medal at the Beijing Olympics and earned a world record in 2010 by scoring home runs in nine successive games. He’s had a good first season in Japan but he did bugger all in this game.

Lee Dae Ho

At the start of the seventh the home fans blew up balloons and then released them. Most of them just hit the roof of the stand and dropped back down whilst a handful reached the playing field. It must be a regular occurence as the cheerleaders were waiting to clear them away.

The home fans and their balloons.

Midway through the seventh we moved around to where the away fans were sat, mainly so that I could get a look at the scoreboard. I’ve no idea what a lot of the stats mean in English, never mind in Japanese, but it looked impressive enough.

Kyocera Dome scoreboard.

As the game moved into the eighth innings we cleared off for the journey back to Kyoto. One of the unusual things that I noticed at the railway station was that they have ‘Women Only’ carriages on the trains. These were originally introduced as a measure to deter male gropers but studies have shown that a lot of the women in those carriages are now put there by their husbands who wish to read the newspaper in peace on the journey home.

‘Women Only’.

All in all, my first trip to a Japanese baseball game was an enjoyable experience. Not as enjoyable as the last time I’d watched a game in a stadium with a roof, but it was never going to come close to the Boro’s Carling Cup win at Cardiff. There were enough differences from the Korean way of doing things to make it interesting and I’d quite like to go back to Japan some time and see a more meaningful game with a bigger crowd.