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Valencia v Celta de Vigo, Saturday 25th November 2023, 4.15pm

January 24, 2024

I suppose the Mestalla had been on my ‘visit’ list for a while. Partly because it’s generally considered to be one of the iconic Spanish stadiums, but mainly because Valencia have been building a new ground for what seems like donkey’s years. Construction seems to start and then stall again for a while and so I’ve been given additional time that nobody would have anticipated when the New Mestalla plans were announced.

Jen and I spent the morning and early afternoon mooching around the city centre. There were old churches, squares with cafes and an indoor market with pig heads, live lobsters and skinned rabbits. We bought a bag of padron peppers that hopefully we’ll be able to roast to resemble the way you get them served as tapas.

As game time approached, we made our way to the ground. It was busy outside with fans of both sides milling around. The scarf stalls were doing brisk business, as were the bars. If I lived in Valencia, I’d be happy to go along regularly and follow the team. We’ve got Mendieta in common and I watched them win the Copa del Rey back in 2008. That’s enough for a connection.

I’d bought tickets online a couple of weeks earlier at twenty-five euros a pop for seats high in the North Stand behind the goal. It was a very easy process and all I had to do was make sure I could find the Downloads folder on my phone to retrieve them at the turnstile.

It was an epic climb to our seats with about a dozen flights of stairs and then once outside, three risers to each row of seats. The steepness meant that every row had a barrier in front of it to prevent people tumbling downwards after getting over-excited.

Valencia’s opponents were Celta de Vigo, a team that I‘d watched a lot of back in the days when I worked in Galicia. Inevitably, Iago Aspas was still turning out for them, seventeen years after I’d watched him play for their ‘B’ team. Of greater interest to the home fans was the Celta manager, Rafa Benitez, who received a warm round of applause and a chorus of his song in appreciation of his Valencia exploits twenty years ago.

It wasn’t a classic with neither side have the guile, pace or luck needed to break the other down and chances were at a premium. It finished goalless, which no doubt suited relegation candidates Celta better. At the final whistle Rafa hugged everyone in sight and took the applause of the forty or so travelling fans to our left. I made sure to hold the handrail on the way down.

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Apolo Pinedo v Jucar, Saturday 25th November 2023, 2pm

January 24, 2024

Jen and I had driven up to Valencia for some La Liga action at the Mestalla and arrived a few hours before kick-off to see the sights around the city. We’d managed to dump the car about twenty minutes away from the ground, next to the Jardi del Turia, which is a park that runs through a lot of the old centre.

Lots of people were taking a stroll through the trees and there were yoga classes going on as well as some salsa dancing. I had more interest in the football pitch that I’d spotted and we paused for a while at the Camp de futbol municipal L’Exposicio to watch some matches where the kids were probably around six years old. They played across the pitch in eight-a side matches.

Three hours or so later we were back in the park, having had our lunch and with the intention of picking up coats and jumpers from the car before heading to the match. As we passed the park pitch, I could see there was still football going on but this time it was larger kids playing eleven -a-side. That counts as a tick by my rules and so we hurried over for a closer look.

I asked a fella behind the goal who the teams were and fortunately he knew. He also told me that the players were fifteen years old. This was enough for me to be able to track down and confirm the details online of the Infantil A Division of some Valencian League.

Apolo were in a blue and back striped kit of the style made famous by the Boro’s infrequent adoption of the colours as an away strip. Think Hickton in the Charlton’s Champions team, Barmby in Robbo’s first Premier League campaign or Boksic a few years later. The other lot were in a white kit, something that we’ve occasionally turned out in, but which is more naturally associated with Dirty Leeds.

Apolo looked to be the stronger side and scored whilst we were there, before running out eventual three-one winners.

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CD Eldense v CD Mirandes, Sunday 19th November 2023, 4.15pm

January 23, 2024

The third game of the day took us out of Murcia and an hour down the road to Eldense. We found a parking space that didn’t seem too far from the ground, but it was only when we got closer on foot that I realised that we’d parked near to the old Estadio Pepico Amat.

Fortunately, there were sufficient people milling around to give me a bit of confidence that the new Pepico Amat couldn’t be too far away. Sure enough, it was just around the corner, and after a lap of the ground trying to find our section, we eventually arrived at the temporary seating erected to increase the ground capacity from its original four thousand.

Four thousand seems somewhat unambitious for a team that’s now in the second-tier. They might have been better staying at the old Pepico. This game didn’t sell out, but maybe the five-hundred tickets sold over the old capacity made the building of the temporary stand worthwhile.

Our twenty-five euro seats near the top gave us an excellent view of the countryside beyond the ground, although with the sun in our eyes I was grateful when the it finally disappeared behind the hills. That was the signal for everyone to add a layer or zip up their coat.

Fifteenth place Mirandes took the lead on the half-hour. Or, more accurately, a couple of minutes later after the VAR got involved. I was surprised to see that they have it in the second-tier in Spain, although I was equally surprised that the game went ahead at all in an international week.

Anyway, a Mirandes striker looked to have had his shot saved on the line. He wheeled away doing a Jan Fjortoft airplane celebration whilst everyone else, including his team mates, played on without a murmur. Two minutes on, the ref paused, held his finger to his earpiece and awarded the goal.

Tenth placed Eldense had the crowd stamping a little too enthusiastically for my liking in a stand made of scaffolding with an injury time equaliser just before the break. They went ahead a couple of minutes after the restart and looked as if they would see the game out. They didn’t quite manage it though as a stooping header from a free-kick whipped in bang on ninety minutes secured a point for the visitors.

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UCAM Murcia CF v Cadiz CF B, Sunday 19th November 2023, 12 noon

January 20, 2024

The second game of the day was just a short drive away in Murcia and the reduced Sunday traffic meant that we were parked up a short walk from the Estadio de La Condomina with plenty of time to spare.

There’s a limit to how much football Jen wants to watch and I suspect that we often exceed it. She decided to sit this one out and I left her in a busy churreria, which is a bit like a coffee shop but sells those cups of thick chocolate that you dip a doughnut-like substance into.

I’d already bought a ten euro ticket online for the fourth-tier fixture between UCAM Murcia and the Cadiz B team. UCAM had inherited the ninety-nine year old Condomina ground when Real Murcia relocated to the ‘new Condomina’ where I’d watched the Ukraine U21 game a couple of days earlier.. I wondered whether this ground would eventually become known as the ‘old Condomina’.

I’m not sure how I’d feel if someone had moved into Ayresome Park after the Boro left, particularly if they played in red. If they were a non-league side, say the like of Boro Rangers, maybe I’d go along and adopt them as a second team. Although it might well be more like going to see a tribute act, which I rarely do.

There were only two areas open. A main covered stand that ran along one side of the pitch that looked like it was dropping to bits and an open area behind the goal to my left. There was a small band of ultras with a drum in that one, squeezed into the only area that had the benefit of shade.

The game got off to a slow start with UCAM having most of the possession and territory with Cadiz relying on counter-attacks. When the visitors did get opportunities, they were invariably blasted high and wide. UCAM scored with a low shot across the keeper into the corner just before the break and that turned out to be enough to take the points.

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Real Murcia CF B v CAP Ciudad de Murcia, Sunday 19th November 2023, 10am

January 17, 2024

This game was the first of three that I had lined up for that day. I’m aware that might be considered a little excessive and I’d probably accept that. But when games are scheduled close to each other and the travelling fits, well, why not? One reservation that I had was that I’d have to miss around ten minutes of either the first or second game as the logistics didn’t quite work perfectly, but I’ve never been precious about having to see the entire game to tick off a ground.

The first fixture required a drive down to Murcia for a ten o’clock kick-off at the Estadio Campus Universitario for a fifth-tier game. We were there an hour early, but the car parks were already full, no doubt with cars that hadn’t moved all week whilst their owners stayed in bed. Fucking students.

It was five euros admission, but very few people were paying as they were flashing what I presumed were their Real Murcia season cards to watch the reserve side. The only viewing option was a seven-row uncovered concrete terrace down one side. We spotted a few plastic chairs dotted about in the back row and collected two of then as a perk of being there so early.

Real Murcia B were fifth in the table with CAP Ciudad de Murcia in tenth, but there were just four points between the sides. The game wasn’t up to much and my eyes were repeatedly drawn to an eight a side small kids game on the next pitch along. On the basis that the adult ref seemed twice the height of the players I’d guess that they were around six years old. Some of them looked pretty decent and you couldn’t help but smile at the joy and despair whenever a goal was scored.

There wasn’t anything like the excitement in the adult game, with not a single shot on target in the first half. I tried for a half-time drink but there was nothing available. By the time we reached the hour mark, at least each side had managed a shot on target. Nevertheless, I didn’t see much point in hanging around any longer and so we cleared off at that point to make sure that I was on time for the second game of the day.

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Atzeneta UE v CD Acero, Saturday 18th November 2023, 4pm

January 16, 2024

After the U21 game it was time for a fifth-tier fixture at Atzeneta. We got there early enough for a wander around the town, having read that they had some ice houses and that there was an excellent view of a valley. We didn’t see either of those sights, but we did stumble across a sheep in someone’s back garden.

We also found an old stone laundry system where people would wash their keks on a not so rapid cold cycle by using the stone gulleys outside of their houses. The Atzeneta tourist people had very kindly created a little trail for people like us with frequent notes spelling out how it all worked. It’s just what I need for the washing machine in our house.

The Campo de Futbol el Regit was up a hill on the edge of town and with woodland on three sides. We were there well before kick-off and by that time there were already lots of cars parked up. Atzeneta had a big game against La Liga side Getafe coming up in the Kings Cup and I wondered if maybe more people than usual were turning up for this game with the intention of buying a ticket for the cup-tie.

Our tickets for this match were fifteen euros each, which struck me as a bit over the top, although that’s maybe just because of my age. Or tightness. It’s about on a par with seventh-tier prices in England and so I suppose not too bad really. I bought some raffle tickets on the way in but noted that the prize of a couple of bottles of wine probably wasn’t worth much more than the cost of the tickets. I’d been hoping for the chance to win a pig leg.

We found seats in a covered stand that probably held around three-hundred and fifty or so. Latecomers had the opportunity to lean against a rail along the remainder of the touchline. An alternative option was provided by benches and tables on the opposite side of the ground which was outside of the perimeter fence and up the hill. Some teenagers had nabbed those spots and saved themselves the entry fee.

Atzeneta were in the play-off spots, with visitors Acero in mid-table. The hosts went a goal up after a quarter of an hour with a shot from outside the box and preserved their single goal advantage until the break. I got myself some sort of mini pasty that seemed to be filled with tuna and tomato. It was ok, I suppose, on the basis that by ordering blindly it could have been a lot worse.

The home side quickly added two more goals after the restart and before the sun dropped behind the mountain knocking around ten degrees off the temperature. Acero pulled on back just after the hour, then had a ‘goal’ disallowed before missing a simple chance. At that point it could easily have been three-each.

The game was effectively over when the Acero keeper saw red for a deliberate handball. With no subs remaining an outfield player took his sweaty top and promptly conceded a tap-in for a final score of four-one.

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Ukraine U21 v Luxembourg U21, Friday 17th November 2023, 7pm

January 16, 2024

As both Jen and I can work remotely we decided to head off to Spain for a few weeks. We flew into Alicante and rented an apartment a little further down the coast in Santa Pola. It’s an area with plenty of football grounds within an easy drive and it wasn’t long before I’d pencilled in my first game.

Murcia is about an hour away and was providing the location for a couple of fixtures for the Ukrainian U21 side. It’s just like so many Spanish cities, with a well-preserved old town. We had time to look around the cathedral, or at least, a cathedral and called into the attached museum where the highlight was a painting of an olden day bloke flicking the vees.

It was getting dark by the time we made our way up to the New Condomina stadium that usually hosts Real Murcia. Tickets were free, although with an admin charge of less than two euros that my bank still felt the need to verify.

Only the lower section of one stand was open, so even free tickets weren’t enough to draw a sizeable crowd. Most people seemed to be supporting Ukraine and a lot sang their national anthem. I wondered how many of the players had lost friends and family or knew someone at the front.  

It was the third time this year that I’d seen the Ukraine U21 team after the two fixtures in the U21 Championship finals in Bucharest in the summer.

I’d told Harry where we were, and he had forecasted an easy win for Ukraine. They had most of the possession and chances and went in at the break a goal up. His prediction looked a lot more likely when Luxembourg went a man down minutes into the second half. The fella couldn’t really complain at going for two yellows as his first could easily have been a red in itself when he took his own retribution at being denied a free kick and launched himself from behind at the perpetrator.

Playing against ten men made it easier for Ukraine. They added another three goals and spurned as many other good chances for an eventual four-nil victory.

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Middlesbrough v Leicester City, Saturday 11th November 2023, 3pm

January 16, 2024

With the American trip done, Jen and I had a few days in the UK before heading off again. Fortunately, it coincided with a Boro game and so I was able to get along in person rather than watching or listening on my phone. Alistair wasn’t busy, so he came along with Harry and I.

The Boro had picked up a bit whilst I was in the States meaning that the game against leaders Leicester featured the two form teams in the division. Harry thought that we’d take a point and I’d have been satisfied with that. Leicester looked good early on, but we grew into the game and finished the first half with a flurry of chances.

They put us under pressure after the break and hit the post, but it was the Boro that took the points with a Sam Greenwood free-kick a few minutes from time. As it hit the top-corner of the net from twenty-five yards we celebrated in disbelief. Especially Alistair, who I think might be close to switching his allegiance from Man City.

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Houston Dynamo v Real Salt Lake, Sunday 29th October 2023, 5pm

January 13, 2024

As the US trip went on I found that the options for seeing another football game opened up a bit with the MSL play-offs. Houston had qualified and had a home game in Texas, which is just a five-hour drive from Baton Rouge. It’s the sort of distance that Americans will drive to pick up a Gazette and a pint of milk and so it seemed far less weird than travelling that far would in the UK to attend a game in say, Cornwall, between two teams I had no affinity with.

A benefit of travelling long distance in the States is the variety of service stations. I’ve previously broken a journey to fire an AK47. This time I got to manhandle an alligator. Despite me telling the lady in charge that alligators generally like me, she still wouldn’t remove the band from around its mouth in case it ripped my arm off. Nevertheless, it beats the services in the UK and perked me up far more than a coffee would, although perhaps not as much as blasting away with a machine gun did.

As the game was on a Sunday Houston was pretty quiet and we stayed at a hotel next to the baseball stadium and about a twenty-minute walk from Houston Dynamos Shell Energy Stadium. Somewhat surprisingly (to me) the game hadn’t sold out. Maybe Houston isn’t really a soccer town.

As we went in we were given a tea towel and a voucher for a bottle of Bud Lite. I doubt I’d ever buy American Bud unless there were very limited options but as it was free, I was happy to save the tenner that I’d have needed to spend on a stadium beer. Jen very kindly gave me hers as well, although the savings then became moot as she switched to twenty-dollar Margaritas.

Our seats were in one of the corners, so we watched the warm-ups from a bar. If you got there early enough you could watch the whole game from tables there and that might have been a decent option, particularly if you were more interested in a chat and a drink than the action on the pitch.

The play-off structure has been expanded so that half the league seems to qualify. What is odder is that the format provides for a best of three scenario. That seems like overkill to me, surely a two-legged affair is enough for anyone.

Anyway, Dynamo went a goal up and Salt Lake equalised. With the rain coming down and Jen and I having relocated to the bar to take advantage of their roof, Houston nicked a late winner to go a game up with two to play.

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LSU Tigers v Arkansas Razorbacks, Thursday 19th October 2023, 6pm

January 12, 2024

Jen had arranged to spend a month in the States, primarily to do some dog sitting for her sister who was going on holiday. As the work I’m doing can all be done remotely I thought I’d go along as well. We started off at her Dad’s house in Mississippi where the highlights were cutting down a couple of trees with a chainsaw and taking his dog Roscoe for a walk.

Soccer-wise, the season was drawing to an end, and I don’t think that there are any local sides in the MSL or the second-tier leagues anyway. The college season was just about done too but I was just in time for a women’s university fixture between LSU and Arkansas.

It was free to park at the LSU Soccer Stadium and free to get into the game. They even gave me a complimentary ‘fanny pack’ for turning up. Once inside I got myself an enormous coke and a sausage Po Boy, which is really just a hot dog in a bun.

I took a seat in the main stand and watched the two sides warm up. Both of them had massive squads. LSU had twenty-six outfield players and four goalies. Arkansas must have had an injury crisis as they’d only brought twenty-three players.

The home side were in their traditional purple with the visitors in white. Both sets of players wore their shorts a lot tighter than in the English game and hitched up in the style favoured mainly by teenage girls and Glen Hoddle. Sepp Blatter would no doubt have been pleased.

Another noticeable difference to English game was that the scoreboard clock counted down and was paused whenever there was a break in play for VAR checks, yellow card admin or injuries. We also got a greater involvement from the stadium announcer who, in case any of the crowd were blind, would advise the reason for a break in play with “Offside, Arkansas” or “Free-kick, Tigers”.

We were treated to a twenty-odd strong brass band that every now and then would go walkabout through the stand. I suppose if you have to practice the tuba, you might as well do it whilst watching a match.

The game was only half an hour old when we got four Razorback subs and one from LSU. Ten minutes later another Razorback was swapped as were three Tigers players. The substitutions took no time at all as the oncoming player sprinted on with a bib in hand, gave it to the subbed player who similarly sprinted off the field. I liked that.

I lost track of the total number of subs throughout, but it was more than eleven for each side with some players coming back on and some subs only getting a few minutes pitch time before returning to the bench. I’m aware of rolling subs in the over-forties leagues in England but hadn’t expected it here.

The game was goalless up until the a few minutes from time when LSU took the lead with a header. I thought that would be enough to clinch the victory but Arkansas equalised pretty much straightaway to take a share of the points.

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