Bucheon 1995 v Paju Citizen, Saturday 31st March 2012, 5pm

April 16, 2012

The last time I’d been to Bucheon I’d taken a trail through some woods to reach the ground. This time though, I didn’t have time and so after getting off the subway at Sosa I just followed the road for twenty five minutes to Bucheon’s stadium at the Leports Complex. On my previous visit I’d arrived only to discover that the game had been switched to the opposition stadium but thankfully this time I could see the players walking out onto the pitch through a gap in the stand.

With the game about to start I followed some fans through the main entrance where I was politely turned away and re-directed further around the stadium to the ticket office. It came as a bit of a surprise as it’s not often that you have to pay at this level or indeed, the one above.

I found the ticket office and joined the queue for a five thousand won ticket. It wasn’t ‘Boro at Wembley’ length, but I did find the idea of printing tickets and then employing people to sell them and check them on entry a bit over the top for a division where the crowds average around two hundred. Wouldn’t just handing over a five thousand won note as you went in be a bit more efficient if you are going to bother charging an entry fee in the third tier?

At least you didn't have to camp out overnight.

I’d missed the first couple of minutes by the time I’d got inside the stadium. Bucheon were in red shirts with black shorts and Paju were in green tops with blue shorts. There were maybe five hundred people or so watching, including a dozen from Paju behind the goal. That’s a pretty healthy crowd for a Challengers League game, so perhaps it’s worth their while charging for admission after all.

The Paju fans seemed happy to catch up on their sleep.

Bucheon had more of the ball in the first half but neither side created much and when a half-chance did fall to someone a goal never really looked likely. It was goalless at half-time.

Paju on the attack in the first half.

The Bucheon fans were very impressive, singing throughout the match and they marked the start of the second half with a flare. Bucheon 1995 is a club that was founded by supporters of SK Bucheon after the K-League club was relocated to Jeju Island a few years ago as part of the effort to de-centralise clubs from the Seoul area. Whilst the new team play in the third division, they use the same stadium that SK Bucheon did and they wear the same colours.

The Bucheon fans show the Paju lot how it's done.

The game came to life ten minutes after the interval when the Paju goalie flattened a Bucheon striker on the edge of the box. It looked like it was going to end in tears from the moment he set off as he was never likely to get to the ball first. Even though the ref had little option but to send the keeper off, the lad was furious, throwing his gloves to the pitch in a fit of temper.

Bath time, sonny.

Once the keeper had left the pitch, we still had to wait a while for the re-start. First of all the Paju staff had to work out which of their twenty of so subs were actually goalies. Then they had to decide which of them would come on to replace the unlucky outfield player. Once the new keeper had been selected, we then had to watch him warm-up at the side of the pitch for five minutes whilst the rest of the players and the crowd gradually froze to death.

Eventually the new lad felt ready to come on. If I’d have been the ref, I’d have booked him for time-wasting as he made his entrance. His first touch saw him pole-axed as if he had been clattered with a length of 4″ by 2″. I did wonder at that point whether he just didn’t fancy it, despite his extensive warm up. His second touch was to pick the ball out of the net as Bucheon finally got the opening goal.

As most of the home players ran to their fans to celebrate, Paju had to be stopped by the ref from sneakily kicking-off against the couple of Bucheon players who were back in their own half.

The goal opened the game up a bit more and both sides had their chances. A few minutes from time a Paju free-kick from the edge of the box was curled just wide, whilst Bucheon could have sealed it at the end with a chip over the Paju keeper that landed just the wrong side of the post.

Almost an equaliser.

The single goal was enough to clinch victory for Bucheon and the win took them above Paju in the table and into second place.

LG Twins v Nexen Heroes, Saturday 31st March 2012, 1pm

April 12, 2012

After turning up at Bucheon three weeks ago for a football match that took place elsewhere, I had been looking to go back there and actually see a game. They were at home again last Saturday with a 7pm kick-off and the lateish kick-off gave me a bit of spare time in the afternoon to watch some baseball first.

I had a walk along to Jamsil where LG Twins were taking on Nexen Heroes in another of the pre-season games. As I approached the stadium I wondered whether or not the game was on. I couldn’t see anyone in the seats, which was surprising with only twenty minutes to go before the scheduled one o’clock start.

When I got there though, there were plenty of people milling around outside and the old biddies who sell the food and drink were out in force.

Plenty of dried squid available.

It was free entry, but the outfield seats weren’t open. I took a seat in the away fan section near third base, just high enough up to be able to see over the top of the netting. There weren’t too many other people inside as the game started, but there were probably ten thousand or so in there by the time I left. It was a similar attendance to that of the game I’d seen the previous week at Cheongju, but there’s a big difference in atmosphere between ten thousand people in a twelve thousand capacity ground and the same number of people spread out in a stadium that holds thirty thousand.

The crowd at 1pm.

In last week’s game Nexen hadn’t managed a single run against Hanwha, but they were off the mark in the first innings in this one, with Yoo Han Joon getting the hit that allowed one of his team mates to get home. Yoo Han Joon seemed pretty unpopular with the home fans and was booed every time he walked to the plate. I’ve no idea what the issue was, as far as I can see he isn’t an ex-LG player, nor has he turned out for their rivals Doosan Bears. Perhaps he’s just one of those fellas, like Robbie Savage or Craig Bellamy, that you feel obliged to boo, pantomime-style, whenever you see them. Fair enough.

Booooooooo.

The Nexen celebrations for their run and indeed anything else were hampered by their lack of cheerleaders. Perhaps they were economising and saving them for the proper start of the season. One of their fans was happy to fill the gap though and despite the absence of any music or a megaphone, he managed to lead his fellow supporters in a variety of chants. I liked the way that he generally kept one eye on what was happening on the field whilst still managing to cajole some noise from the Nexen faithful.

Not the usual gratuitous cheerleader picture.

Nexen kept their lead until the third innings and then fell a run behind in the fourth. In the break between innings I had a glance around at the people sat nearby. The old bloke to my right was drinking yellow coloured liquid from a jam jar. I’d like to think that he hadn’t mixed up his refreshments with a urine sample. There was a man behind me using the sort of lens on his camera that you could photograph a moon landing with and of course, the obligatory couple in matching clothes, this time showing their love for Nexen as well as each other.

That's commitment.

There were a lot of families in the crowd too and some of them had brought children that were far too young to really appreciate what was going on. A pre-season game is an ideal situation though to bring a young kid. There’s plenty of room, it’s free to get in and other fans aren’t going to get arsey about a toddler running around.

When my son was three or four years old I would take him to Boro reserve games at Ayresome Park. He’d watch the football for a while but then would be more interested in running up and down, getting some sweets and then going home at half-time. I didn’t mind, I’d got to see forty five minutes or so of football and we’d had an night off from watching Thomas the Tank Engine. Nobody else in the crowd was inconvenienced at those games as the place was empty. Mind you, if I recall correctly the crowds for the first team matches weren’t much bigger in those Lennie Lawrence days.

Nexen regained their lead with two runs in the fifth before the home side responded with a hit that ended up in the empty outfield seats and tied the game at three each.

The first home run of the day.

By the start of the eighth it was still three all and time for me to leave to catch the subway to Bucheon for the football. I had a look on the internet later and someone had got a fourth run to take the game. I can’t remember which team it was unfortunately, maybe Nexen. Anyway, it’s not important.

That’s it for my pre-season baseball, next time I go it will be the real thing. Or maybe not, I’ve got plans this year to watch a fair bit of second tier baseball in the Futures League. So it will be up and coming hopefuls battling it out alongside grizzled old pro’s returning from injury or loss of form. The stadiums appear to be located in towns whose existence is rarely even acknowledged by the guide books and I’m expecting the crowds to consist almost exclusively of coaching staff, agents and families. There’ll probably be an old bloke or two drinking their own piss as well.

FC Seoul v Jeonbuk Motors, Sunday 25th March 2012, 3pm

April 10, 2012

Three weeks into the new season and with Jeonbuk Motors visiting FC Seoul, it was time for me to catch up with Lee Dong Gook. The Boro’s greatest ever Korean player had started the season exceptionally well, capping his recall to the national team with three goals in two games and then continuing his good form with another three in Jeonbuk’s first three K-League games.

I’ve been to see quite a few games at Seoul’s Sangam stadium over the last couple of years and so to make the day a bit more interesting Jen and I decided to walk there. We’d tried to do the same thing last year but had been thwarted by the flooding of the Han River.

This time though, we were still three months or so away from the rainy season and saw no reason why we wouldn’t be able to just follow the river all the way to the stadium. We set off from Yeoksam not long after eight in the morning which gave us almost seven hours until kick-off. Just to make the route a bit longer, we walked in the wrong direction to Jamsil and joined the Han River at the Olympic Stadium. This took the overall distance to more than twenty kilometres. I’m not sure how much more, but as we seem to average around three kilometres an hour, I wasn’t entirely certain that we’d make the kick-off.

There wasn’t a great deal going on that we hadn’t seen on previous walks along the Han, apart from a much increased security presence. There was a Nuclear Summit due to take place the following day that the likes of Obama would be attending and it looked as if every copper in Korea was on duty. We passed three coachloads of police by the COEX centre and as we walked along the river we saw policemen on bikes, in boats and guarding every bridge we passed. Helicopters constantly flew overhead.

Undercover Police pretending to be fishermen.

Every time I walk along the Han I see more improvements to the paths, facilities and surrounding areas. It’s a place where kids can play sport and older folks can walk their dogs or work out on the gym equipment. There are stages and seating for open-air concerts and car parks where people can watch films on big screens. There are swimming pools, football and rugby pitches, basketball, badminton and tennis courts, croquet lawns and baseball parks. Taxation levels seem very low in Korea so it surprises me when I see the extent of public spending on leisure facilities.

We passed the areas where the previous year we had been forced to make extensive detours and in some of those cases the path had now been relocated to higher ground in response.

Last year.

 

After a bit of earth-moving and with a new path installed it now looked like this;

This year.

We first spotted the World Cup Stadium at around two o’clock. It took us another half an hour or so to get there as there were numerous roads to cross. I’ve a feeling that if we had carried a little further along the river then there might have been a nice easy path through a park. Maybe next time.

Six hours later.

It was a cold day and whilst Jen was fine with that during the walk, she was less confident of her ability to avoid hypothermia whilst sitting in a football stadium for two hours. She headed off back to Yeoksam (on the subway) and I got myself a fourteen thousand won ticket for the Jeonbuk end.

As I went through the gate I noticed that Jeonbuk shirts were being given away for free. I joined the queue, but was told that they were only for employees of Hyundai Motors and their families. Judging by the amount of shirts being given away, half the factory must have been attending the game. Despite the decent turnout by the Jeonbuk fans, the overall attendance was poor. It was announced as 25,811, but it was easy enough to work out that the true figure was less than half of that.

The match started well for the visitors and within three minutes they were in the lead. Luiz dispossessed a defender and played in Lee Dong Gook who calmly placed the ball to the keeper’s left for his seventh goal of the season.

One - nil to Jeonbuk.

Seoul had plenty of possession though and equalised just before the half-hour mark. Dejan Damjanovic’s shot hit the bar, bounced down and Ha Dae Sung  was first to the rebound, scoring with a diving header.

At half time I moved upstairs, partly for the change of view but mainly for a bit of peace and quiet. The woman who had been sat behind me in the lower tier had been getting a little too excited in the first half whenever Jeonbuk were on the attack. On the occasions when they got near to the Seoul penalty box, she sounded as if she was close to orgasm. I thought it only polite to give her some privacy.

Jeonbuk should really have regained the lead on the hour. Lee Dong Gook got clear though and was one-on-one with the keeper. He tried to leave the lad flat on his arse but in doing so allowed the goalie to nick the ball off his toe. He got a second chance at it but his shot was cleared off the line by a defender who had got back to cover.

Jeonbuk have got a new foreign striker this season, Hugo Droguett, a Chilean who has been playing in Mexico. He came on as a sub for Eninho mid-way through the second half but didn’t make much of a difference. He put a free-kick wide of the post and failed to hit the target after a one-two with Lee Dong Gook. I don’t want to judge him prematurely, but I didn’t see anything that made him look as good an option as an impact sub as Krunoslav Lovrek, who has moved on from Jeonbuk to Qingdao Jonoon in the China Super League.

Droguett puts his free-kick wide.

As the game drew to a close I reflected that whilst both teams would no doubt be disappointed with just the point, they had each missed so many chances that they couldn’t really complain. It wasn’t over though and in the eighty-ninth minute Molina weaved his way through the Jeonbuk defence and finished well to clinch the three points for the home side. I was keen to be home before midnight and so decided against walking in favour of the subway.

Jungnang Mustang Chorus v Seoul Martyrs, Saturday 24th March 2012, 1pm

April 3, 2012

The third tier Challengers League expanded from sixteen to eighteen teams this season with the additions of Jungnang Mustang Chorus and Paju Citizen. Seoul based Jungnang Mustang Chorus are owned by a firm of lawyers who are apparently keen to use their involvement in the league to help them in their quest to represent players. I’ve no idea whether they have any top-level footballers on their books yet, but I’d imagine that the most likely opportunity that anyone would have of making money out of the lads in the third division would be if one team bus crashed into another at the traffic lights and sparked a flurry of whiplash claims.

However, whatever the motives of the owners, more teams means more options for watching a game and so Jen and I got the Jungang line subway toYangwon. We came out of the subway on the wrong side and had a bit of wandering about, but the pitch is right next to the Jungnang Camping Ground and only about three hundred yards from the station, following the route of the railway line.

I reckon the camping ground means that it could be a great fixture for away fans who fancy making  a weekend of it. It’s an ideal location for survival enthusiasts like Bear Grylls too, with all those big city five star hotels close by if it gets a bit chilly during the night. Today’s visitors were Seoul Martyrs though and so I doubt that many of the visiting fans would have brought their tents with them.

We’d left home a little bit late as I’d got the kick-off time wrong again, and so by the time we had messed about on the wrong side of the railway tracks for ten minutes the game was well underway.

The view as you arrive from the direction of the station.

We arrived just in time to see Seoul Martyrs take the lead. That was a bit of a turn-up, Jungnang had won their only game to date whilst the visitors had lost both of their league games and had suffered an eight goal beating at the hands of a student team in the cup the week before.

It got even stranger a few minutes later as the visitors got a second goal. At that point I was sure that the legal bods in the Mustang Chorus back-office would be frantically searching for the termination clause in the league constitution that would enable them to return to spending their Saturday afternoons chasing ambulances rather than lost causes.

It's Billy Ashcroft! He was subbed before half-time though.

At half time I met up with Foggy and Clegg, a couple of fellow lower league enthusiasts. Foggy is a fan of the Martyrs and after I’d congratulated him on his team’s performance he was able to put me straight as to which team were which. I’d got them the wrong way around. Jungnang Mustang Chorus were in the yellow and Seoul Martyrs, who were in red, were actually losing by two goals rather than winning. Despite my mistake, I reiterated my congratulations on their performance anyway as it was still an improvement on their usual four goal deficit by that stage of a game. I blame the scoreboard for my confusion, which used the American system of showing the away team’s score first. That and senility, of course.

The view looking towards the Camping Ground.

In the second half I was able to cheer the right team on, after all you can’t be rooting for the lawyers. Well, not unless they are appealing on your behalf against the death penalty. Or a parking ticket. Or indeed, against the Premier League deducting three points from your team and causing them to be relegated for something that had been accepted as an ‘honest error’. Bunch of bastards. Contrast that with the deliberate dishonesty and deceit shown by West Ham over Tevez and the Premier League decision not to deduct points from Trevor Brooking and his chums because ‘the fans would suffer’. Bunch of bastards, indeed. I’m not still bitter, as I’m sure you can tell. Still, looking on the bright side, West Ham have to put up with Fat Sam these days, which does bring a smirk to my face more often than it really should.

So, I suppose what I’m getting at is that there probably are a few times whan you could back the lawyers, however today wasn’t one of them.

I liked the stand, although it didn't provide much protection from the snow.

My properly directed support must have made a difference as Seoul pulled a goal back straight after the restart. I suspected that a few of the Martyrs players had also been told at half-time that they were the team in red rather than yellow, as a lot more of their passes were going to team-mates rather than the opposition. The occasion wasn’t helped by the changing weather. We had the odd sunny spell interspersed with snow showers. I’d brought a few cans of beer inside a cool-bag on the premise of keeping them chilled. In reality though, the cool-bag served the purpose of preventing the beer from freezing.

And that's the view of the end with the new houses.

The Martyrs had a few chances to equalise as the game went on, but the better chances fell to the home side who seemed incapable of placing a shot anywhere other than straight at the visiting keeper. There were no more goals in the second half and the win for Jungnang maintained their hundred per cent record. Martyrs, on the other hand, maintained their own record of having lost every game this season and remained bottom of the league.

Seongnam v Tianjin Teda, Wednesday 21st March 2012, 7pm

March 31, 2012

I probably wouldn’t have bothered with this game normally as it’s a bit of a rush to get to Seongnam’s Tancheon Stadium for a 7pm mid-week kick-off. I was having a browse through the squad of their Chinese opponents though, as you do, to see if they had recruited any ageing superstars, when I spotted that they had an English player.

I’d never heard of the fella listed, Akpo Sodje, but all that means is that he probably hasn’t scored too many goals against the Boro over the years. Google is your friend though and it turns out that he’s played all over the place.

He started off at QPR as a kid and then had spells at Stevenage Borough, Margate, Gravesend & Northfield (That’s one team, not two), Heybridge Swifts, Erith & Belvedere (that’s one team as well), Huddersfield Town, Darlington, Port Vale, Sheffield Wednesday, Charlton Athletic and Hibernian. The last couple of names are actually two teams.

So, he’s been around a bit. It was his spell at Darlington that clinched it though. If he’d played for Darlo, I’d have to go and see him. I suppose you could describe Darlo as being like the Boro’s kid brother. They play nearby but are too crap to be considered a rival.  A bit like the way it was with Sunderland when they had Mick McCarthy in charge.

I must admit, I did wonder just why a team in the China Super League, particularly one that had qualified for the Asian Champions League, would have wanted to sign him. After all, Anelka is playing over there now and we keep reading reports that Chinese clubs are prepared to pay Frank Lampard or Rio Ferdinand a quarter of a million pounds a week to make the move. Still, that’s a matter for Tianjin Teda.

Akpo Sodje gets booked in the Sheffield derby for messing with Boro legend Ugo Ehiogu. Serves him right.

I hurried out of work and got to Tancheon a minute or so before kick-off. It was 10,000 won to get in and I sat in the East Stand, near to the half-way line. Akpo Sodje and his Chinese team mates didn’t seem to be much of a draw to the people of Seongnam as I’d reckon that there were only about a thousand spectators present. The official attendance was 2,553, but there’s no way that there were as many as that in the ground. In fact Akpo had probably played in front of bigger crowds at Darlo.

Seongnam had their usual twenty ultras behind the goal to my right and as happens every week they were outnumbered by the away fans. It was closer than most games though, with only about fifty people at the other end supporting the visitors.

Tianjin Teda fans.

The pitch was looking good, probably the best I’ve ever seen it as Seongnam kicked off in their Watford strips with Tianjin Teda in all white. So, what about our English fella? Well, he wasn’t there. Despite having scored the week before, he hadn’t made the starting eleven. I scoured the subs bench, but he wasn’t there either. Marvellous.

Not there either.

So, that was a waste of time. As for the game, Seongnam went a goal up early on when a glancing header from Han Sang Woon dropped perfectly inside the back post. The visitors equalised twenty minutes from the end with an effort that the Seongnam keeper should have done better with.

This one didn't go in.

I cleared off with ten minutes to go, it was a bit too cold to hang about on the off-chance that Sodje might suddenly appear from nowhere like a Sunday League player who had slept in and missed his lift. Nobody else scored and the game finished one each.

Hanwha Eagles v Nexen Heroes, Sunday March 18th 2012, 1pm

March 30, 2012

After watching the FA Cup first round tie between Cheongju Jikji and Ajou University the previous day, Jen and I had stayed over in Cheongju for a pre-season baseball game. There are plenty of motels in the area around the bus stations and we selected one on the basis of its towers, stone cladding and the fake bronze bust in its doorway.

Nice bust.

It was exceptional value at 30,000 won, with a 42“ television, a computer in the room and far fewer hairs in the bed or bathroom than you would expect at that price. The only thing that it was lacking was a control to turn the heating down and so we had to regulate the temperature by sleeping with the window open.

The baseball wasn’t due to start until 1pm and so in the morning we got a taxi to Bumosanseong fortress wall. There are two fortress walls in Cheongju, Bangdangsanseong and Bumosanseong. Don’t worry, I won’t test you on the names. Bangdangsanseong is better, but Bumosanseong is closer to where we were staying and so that is where we went.

The taxi took us to within about fifty yards of the top of Mt. Bumo and we got decent views in all directions. The wall didn’t appear to have been restored and a lot of the time we were walking on top of it. It didn’t take long to get all of the way around though and as we had time to spare we walked all of the way back to the town centre.

It's just like that one in China.

Jen had stuff to do and so I went to the baseball by myself.  A taxi dropped me off outside Cheongju Baseball Stadium ten minutes before the start. I’m glad I didn’t have a car to park as the car park was full. In fact, all the roads leading in and out were packed with cars as well, parked three abreast and stopping anyone from leaving out of turn.

I was quite surprised by how busy it was. This was a pre-season game between two teams that aren’t particularly well supported. Although I suppose that Hanwha playing in Cheongju rather than their usual stadium at Daejeon probably had a lot to do with it. As did free admission and people pining for some baseball after the winter. So I shouldn’t have been suprised really.

The stall-holders were out in force too, mainly selling chicken, silkworms and beer. I didn’t bother and just went straight into the outfield section of the stadium.

On the way in.

Cheongju Baseball Park has a capacity of twelve thousand. At the time the game started I’d estimate that it was around half full. People continued to turn up over the next couple of hours and I’d say the attendance peaked at around ten thousand. Of course, there were no seats to be had later on as latecomers had to compete with the handbags and boxes of chicken that were occupying the remaining places.

You need a chair for your beer.

For those who hadn’t brought their own food, there was plenty available inside, although I’m not sure if this woman was selling the stuff on her head or just replenishing the picnic lunch for her family.

A quick snack.

I was impressed with the stadium. It had ten rows of seating all of the way around, with a roof over the posh seats behind the plate. Ideal for a sunny day really.

The view fron the outfield.

Hanwaha got off to a decent start in the first innings with the popular Kim Tae Kyun cracking a three run homer to within a few yards of me.

Kim Tae Kyun - Hanwha Eagles

Hanwha got a another run in the fourth and then increased their lead further in the fifth when Jung Won Seok made it five-nil with a hit that again landed just in front of me. A fella in the crowd actually caught that one and prevented the usual scramble for the ball from blokes old enough to know much better.

Jung Won Seok collects a quid from each of his team mates after his home run.

Nexen didn’t really put up much of a show on the day, but that didn’t matter. The home crowd were happy just sat in the sunshine watching Hanwha knock the ball around at a stadium that they rarely visit. As was I.

That's not a bad seat.

I had a bus to catch so left in the seventh before Hanwha added another run in my absence to take the game six-nil. I expect that both of these teams will struggle again this season, particularly Nexen, but that’s for their fans to worry about, not me.

Cheongju Jikji v Ajou University, Saturday 17th March 2012, 3pm

March 29, 2012

Jen and I had been to Cheongju towards the back end of last season, but this weekend offered the opportunity to see their third division side Cheongju Jikji take on university opposition in the first round of the FA Cup, with a Hanwha Eagles pre-season baseball game the next day in the local baseball stadium. You can’t not take advantage of scheduling like that.

Cheongju is only about a hundred kilometres south of Seoul and the easiest way to get there is on a bus from Dong Seoul. They go every half hour, on the half hour, which had we known we’d have joined the line for tickets slightly earlier than twenty eight minutes past. Matters weren’t helped when a bloke pushed into the front of the queue, justifying his behaviour by the limited time to departure.

We had to run for the bus after getting our tickets and fortunately we boarded it with seconds to spare. I spotted the bloke who had pushed in ahead of us and gave him my best ‘You have brought shame on your ancestors’ stare. I really should learn the words for that one.

It took two hours for the bus to get to Cheongju and after lunch we took a taxi to the Cheongju Yongjeong Football Park. Cheongju are playing there this season whilst their usual Civil Stadium has some building work done to it. I remember when my Nanna had to move out of her house for a year or so in the late seventies. That was so that she could have an inside toilet installed. I’ve been to the Cheongju Civil stadium though and the facilities are fine, so I doubt that’s the reason. Maybe they are adding an extra tier to their seventeen thousand capacity stadium. It’s just what you need when you get crowds of a couple of hundred.

Yongjeong is a fair distance out of town, the journey taking half an hour and costing eleven thousand won. I was a little worried when we got there that I’d got the kick-off time wrong. The players on the pitch next to the entrance were packing their gear away and it looked as if their game might have just finished. It’s not unusual for kick-off times to change and it wouldn’t be the first time I’d been caught out.

First impressions weren't the best.

Fortunately there are three pitches in the complex and the FA Cup game was taking place on Pitch 1, a bit further over.

This helped.

Pitch 1 has the best facilities for spectators. It has a seating for about twenty yards either side of the half-way line with a roof covering the middle section where the VIPs sit. The less important people on either side get wet and have a view that is obscured by dugouts that aren’t much smaller than the stand itself.

The main stand before kick-off.

As the teams came out, we selected a vantage point towards the back which allowed us to see most of the pitch. The home side were in their Man City strip with the Ajou University students dressed up as Fulham.

Pre-match photo.

The complex is set amongst some small hills which provided a pleasant backdrop to the game. I looked around at the rustic setting and could see a few carefully tended grave mounds, some allotments planted with a variety of crops and the odd area that fly-tippers had left knee-deep in shite.

There was rain in the air as the teams kicked off, but it wasn’t heavy enough for me to need to seek shelter with the posh people and FA officials. I’d estimate that there were about a hundred and fifty spectators watching including three women in front of us whom I suspected all had sons playing for the home side. There was also a bloke behind us who spent the whole first half sniggering like Muttley off Dick Dastardly.

Don't even think about fouling one of their boys.

Cheongju Jikji had the best of the opening half hour and the home crowd got overly excited every time the ball reached the opposition penalty area. They had a decent chance after thirty-five minutes but the lad put his shot just wide of the post. Bang on half-time though, Cheongju got the opening goal. There wasn’t even time for the students to kick off again.

Jikji go close in the first half.

I’d hoped that going a goal down would encourage Ajou to be more positive in the second half and that’s what happened. Cheongju absorbed the early pressure but couldn’t prevent the visitors equalising on the hour. I’d tell you what the goal was like, but I was photographing some of the fans when it went in. You can just see the joy or anguish starting to appear on some of their faces.

One each.

Ajou kept it level until fifteen minutes from the end when the Cheongju number twenty-two got on the end of a free-kick and headed his side back in front. The visitors pressed forward again and had a couple of decent chances, hitting the post on one occasion before shooting straight at the Cheongju goalie soon afterwards. The mothers in front of us were in a state of panic and there wasn’t much sniggering coming from Muttley any more.

The view from behind the goal.

With a few minutes remaining Cheongju broke away and the right winger floated a cross into the box where his striker was waiting to put the game out of reach. He had time to direct his header anywhere he fancied and wisely chose to head it downwards. His header was a bit too effective though and the ball hit the ground somewhere near his feet. Luckily it worked out okay for him as the ball ballooned up and over the keeper, ending up in the back of the net.

The two goal advantage was enough to clinch it and Cheongju went through to the Second Round. We had to walk back towards the town for ten minutes or so before we could get a taxi. Whilst Cheongju’s temporary move allowed us to see a game at a different location, I think that I prefer the old Civil ground and I’m looking forward to seeing it with that extra tier.

Seoul Utd v Gyeongju Citizen, Saturday 10th March 2012, 3pm

March 23, 2012

One of the places where I’ve wanted to see a football match in Korea is at the Olympic Stadium. As far as I can tell, it’s the biggest ground in Korea, South Korea at least, and it’s got that touch of history about it. Apart from that, it’s the nearest stadium to where I live and I see it every time I go to watch the baseball at Jamsil.

The difficulty is that nobody plays there these days. There’s a student game takes place each autumn, I think, some sort of Korean version of the Varsity match, but whenever it’s been on, I’ve been somewhere else.

Maybe they should rent it to West Ham.

Third division Seoul United used to play there, but for the last couple of years they’ve been turning out in Hyochang or Nowon. For some reason though, they decided that what they needed for their first home fixture of this season, was a 69,000 capacity stadium. Woo hoo. Or maybe not. After having my hopes raised, they were quickly dashed when it was announced that whilst the game would take place at Jamsil, it would be on the nearby practice pitch rather than the main stadium.

The practice pitch is on the left, with the floodlights.

Marvellous. I doubt that they would have shunted Ben Johnson and Carl Lewis outside and told them just to run up and down the car park. Still, I hadn’t seen a game on the practice pitch before either, so I thought I’d go along anyway.

It was a sunny day, so I left early and walked there. It’s only forty minutes or so along a straight road that takes you past a few of the big hotels and the COEX centre, following the route of the subway. If I’d actually used the subway then the three stop journey would have taken six minutes, but as I say, I wasn’t in a hurry.

I passed the Art Nouveau City hotel where Jen and I sometimes go for their wine buffet on a mid-week evening. If I’m out of work sharpish, which I usually am, we can be in there not long after half past six and can spend a couple of hours in their comfy armchairs chugging fine wines that are limited only by the need to stand up again afterwards. They have food as well, so it’s a pretty good deal for thirty-odd thousand won and an ideal start to an evening.

We drink on the top floor. Partly because of the view but mainly because that's where they serve the wine.

Anyway, despite choosing to walk rather than get the subway, I was still at Jamsil two and a half hours before kick-off. I was wandering around, as you do, before spotting a bloke stood next to a Seoul United sponsored car. He looked at bit old to be a player, but turned out to be the manager.  We chatted briefly and he told me that after yet another change of plan the game would take place in the main stadium rather than the practice pitch. He also told me that they would win. Only one of those statements turned out to be correct.

The Seoul United manager. He has feet in real-life.

His team were beginning to arrive and in a sign that I’m getting older, they all looked about fourteen. I left him to do whatever managers do two and a half hours before kick-off and went and watched some baseball, a little more excited by the prospect of returning to see a game in the main stadium than a man of my age really should be.

I doubt that any of them were born when the Olympics were here.

Half an hour before kick-off I was back and was pleased to see that a gate to the main stadium was open and that there were people going inside. Not too many people mind. I counted them and reckon that including those in the media section who may or may not have just been sitting there so that they could place their food and drink on the tables provided, the attendance was one hundred and forty. In a stadium with a capacity of almost seventy thousand, that has to be the highest ever ratio of seats to arses at any game I’ve ever been to.

Plenty of space.

The teams came out and lined up before turning to face the Korean flag. It looked as if they were expecting the National Anthem, but it wasn’t played and ten seconds later they sheepishly turned back to the front. Seoul Utd were in a Newcastle strip, whilst Gyeongju had a very imaginative effort of yellow shirts with a green and red stripe. They combined this with blue shorts in what I’m sure was a contravention of some FIFA regulation limiting the number of colours in a kit.

It's still better than black and white stripes.

It was quite a lively opening few minutes with Seoul winning a couple of corners. They were cheered on by their five ultras, one of whom had brought his drum. All their chants followed the same format of shouting a player’s name followed by three bangs of the drum. It’s as well that they don’t have any single name Brazilians at this level, although thinking about it, a lot of them have a three syllable name and so it would still work quite well.

It's like the Gallowgate End in the seventies.

The visitors took the lead after twelve minutes. A deep cross to the Seoul back post was knocked back into the goalmouth where the keeper, at full stretch, couldn’t hold on to it. The Gyeongju striker who picked up the loose ball had time to pick his spot and put his side a goal up.

A quarter of an hour later, Seoul were level. Their number 14 managed to get away from his marker at a throw in and bore down on the keeper whilst a defender snapped away at his ankles like a bad tempered pug. Despite not striking the ball cleanly he still managed to hit it across the keeper and into the corner of the net. One each.

It's on its way in.

There were a couple of other chances before half-time but it remained level at the break. I took the opportunity to switch to the other side of the stadium and bask in the mid-afternoon sunshine. A great plan in theory, apart from it didn’t feel any warmer and I had the sun in my eyes.

Shortly after the re-start, Gyeongju were back in front when one of their strikers was played through the centre and he just managed to get to the ball before the advancing keeper, poking it past him to make it 2-1 to the visitors.

Gyeongju increased their lead on the hour when after a goalmouth scramble in which they should have scored twice before they did, they finally got the ball into the net. It looked at that point as if they might run away with the game. I glanced across at the Seoul manager on the other side of the stadium and wondered if he was mentally revising his pre-game prediction.

See, he does have feet.

Ten minutes from time, Seoul pulled one back to spark what should have been a frantic finish. It wasn’t though, as Gyeongju kept them pinned back in their own half and denied them the chance of throwing everyone forward.

Seoul press for an equaliser, whilst the linesman tries to levitate.

At the final whistle I took the opportunity to walk around the track and then up the 100m home straight. I didn’t cover the ground as quickly as Ben Johnson did all those years ago, but I’d had nothing stronger than a couple of cans of Cass and I’m not sure just how performance-enhancing that stuff really is.

Yonsei University v Konkuk University, Saturday 10th March 2012, 1pm

March 21, 2012

The baseball season doesn’t start properly until April, although the first pre-season friendlies will be underway next week. Even so, if I’m walking past a baseball stadium I’ll always have a look and a listen to see if there is anything going on.

As I passed the Jamsil stadium on my way to the Seoul United football game taking place nearby I could hear voices from inside. I was fairly sure that they were from inside the stadium and not the ones from inside my head, mainly because they didn’t keep telling me to “Grow up, sonny“.

I walked about halfway around the outside of the stadium until I came to the main entrance. There were a lot of people milling about, some dressed in full baseball kit, others clutching boxes of chicken and six packs of beer. I tried to get in but was stopped by a security guard. As a few of the people were leaving and getting onto coaches, it looked to me as if it was some sort of pre-season jolly, possibly for fans, maybe for a junior team. I left them to it and went to have a look at the Olympic Stadium and see if anything was going on there.

Something was definitely going on.

A little later I was walking around the other side of the baseball stadium and I noticed a couple of blokes standing around on the next level up. I went up the ramp and after spotting that they had staff badges on, asked them if there was a game on. When they confirmed that there was, I asked if I could go in and watch. Unlike the earlier security man, they couldn’t give a toss and so I headed into the seating area behind the plate.

View from the posh seats.

It looked like a kid’s game was going on and after picking up a programme from a pile near the entrance I learned that it was a University tournament. I settled down in one of the posh seats with a table directly behind the plate and watched Yonsei University take on Konkuk University.

I’d never sat in a seat that close to the action at Jamsil before, those seats are always sold out long before I get around to buying a ticket, but it turns out that I hadn’t been missing much. Whilst it was great to be so close to the action, the netting that stops you being hit between the eyes by a misplaced shot was just too intrusive. I much prefer to watch from a distance where you don’t notice it as much.

There was plenty of debris lying around, mainly empty beer cans and fried chicken bones. Just what you would expect from students really, they probably scattered them around to make the large stadium seem less intimidating and more like their bedsits.

Bloody students.

The standard of play was as bad as their housekeeping and I wondered if anyone on a sporting scholarship was in detention. Some of the pitches bounced, whilst others flew over the catcher’s head. Runs were gained by stealing bases rather than hitting the ball and it was clear that the formative years of these students had been spent in maths hagwons rather than outside in the fresh air.

Konkuk look for their first run.

It was a pleasant way to pass a bit of time though, and the two hundred strong crowd seemed to be enjoying themselves. For those of you who are interested in results it was the highest scoring baseball game I’ve ever been to despite there being no possibility of anyone hitting a home run unless an eagle swooped down and carried the ball off and dropped it over the wall. By the end of the third innings Yonsei had built up a 23-0 lead. As the games were being contested over just four innings, it was looking  fairly desperate for Konkuk at that stage. Still, it will give them a feel for what it’s like not to start their dissertations until the night before they are due to be handed in.

To the delight of their fans though, Konkuk got a run in their final innings, eventually going down by twenty-five runs to one.

Give that lad a House Point.

With the pre-season games still a week away, and the season proper not starting until next month it was nice to see some baseball earlier than I could have expected, despite the standard. By way of a bonus, as I was leaving I caught the eye of the security bloke who had turned me away earlier and gave him the smuggest grin I manage.

Daegu v FC Seoul, Sunday March 4th 2012, 3pm

March 15, 2012

After failing to see a game at Bucheon the previous day, I was keen to belatedly start my Korean season with a match somewhere. There were a couple of options, but the most appealing was the K-League clash between Daegu and FC Seoul.

As you might have guessed, it wasn’t the teams or the quality of the football that attracted me, although it was likely to be of a better standard than that of the small kids kicking around on the Bucheon practice pitch that had been the full extent of my football the day before. No, it was the chance to see a game in Daegu’s World Cup stadium.

I’d been to watch Daegu play before, but on that occasion they had turned out in the old Civil Stadium whilst their World Cup ground was being tarted up for the 2011 World Athletics Championships. I’d watched a couple of days of that competition too, so I had actually been in the World Cup stadium. However, as good as watching Blanka Vlasic in her gym knickers is, I hadn’t actually seen a football match there.

You wouldn't believe how many visitors come here looking for Miss Vlasic. Or maybe you would.

I caught the 10.10am KTX from Seoul, arriving at Dongdaegu station just after noon. It hadn’t been the best of journeys with the woman behind yapping into her phone all journey and the bloke in front closing the blinds so that I couldn’t see out of the window. It was cold in Daegu with a sea air smell in the area around the station. As Daegu is miles from the coast I presumed that it must have come from a factory somewhere.

Daegu has some quite nice districts, but the area around the train station isn’t one of them. I looked in vain for somewhere to eat and very nearly had to resort to popping into Dunkin’ Donuts. The poster in the window brought me to my senses though.

Salty Caramella? Deviants.

If they can mess up ice-creams with salt, then I couldn’t really trust them with anything else. I gave up on lunch and just got the subway to the nearest stop for the stadium, Grand Park. On coming out of the station, there was a free shuttle coach waiting to take fans to the ground. A nice touch, I thought, particularly as it was absolutely freezing and a twenty minute walk in the wind wasn’t that appealing.

On arriving at the stadium, there was still an hour and a half to go before kick-off. I browsed the various stalls and was given free water, tissues, an orange marker pen and a couple of face packs made from soju. Luckily I didn’t mistake the later items for some sort of consumable soju gel.

Daegu Stadium.

None of the stuff that I’d been given was edible, so I paid five thousand won for a box of fried chicken. It wasn’t really any more edible than the marker pen would have been. It was colder than the surroundings and I couldn’t be entirely certain that it hadn’t been left over from the previous season. Maybe a Salty Caramella might have been worth a try after all.

Get your free stuff here.

After ditching the chicken I bought my ticket, shelling out twelve thousand won for a seat in the West Stand. Don’t know why really, as it was about eight thousand to sit in the East. It’s still only about seven quid though, which compares favourably with the fifty quid that I paid at the recent Real Betis v Getafe game. The prices at K-League games, in fact Korean sport in general, mean that very few people are priced out. You can watch baseball or basketball for around four quid, National League and Challengers League football games are generally free and last time I went to Seoul Racetrack it cost me thirty pence to get in.

No prizes for the groundsman.

There weren’t many people inside the stadium as I took my seat around the half-way line. What struck me was just how brown the pitch was. Do you remember your first ever football match? For most people, the greenness of the pitch is something that sticks in their memory. It wouldn’t though if your first game had been this one. I don’t know if the pitch had been covered up or whether frost had killed off the grass, but it looked more suitable for growing potatoes than playing football.

At quarter past two the Seoul fans made their entrance. I could hear them before I could see them as they had a few drums with them. They marched from the back of their section to their seats with flares blazing and drums, er, drumming. Small children nearby were waving at them in awe, (or possibly recognition if they were family) and the local plod quickly took up a new position that bit closer.

The flares had gone out by the time I took a photo.

The couple of hundred Daegu fans behind the other goal were pretty impressive too, keeping the support going despite the cold and the rain. I was a little surprised to see the crowd announced as twenty-one thousand. Sixteen thousand of them must have gone home as soon as they had stocked up with marker pens and soju facepacks.

Daegu fans in the rain.

I had a coffee to warm me up as I watched the Daegu team being announced on the big screen. I was pleased to see that their three Brazilians were playing. It would be just like watching the Boro in ’97 with Juninho, Emerson and Branco. Although you wouldn’t want Branco anywhere near a stadium that sold fried chicken, not if you had any ambitions of being able to find a pair of shorts to fit him.

I realised that I’d got it wrong though after the thirtieth or so player was announced. What we were getting was a run through of the entire Daegu staff, including an assortment of big bosses, goalkeeping coaches and even a couple of old biddies who snip the weeds from the nearby grass verges and take them home for soup. Only one of the Brazilians, Matheus, had made the team. I wasn’t surprised, Emerson and Branco would have been back in Brazil if it had ever been this cold in the Boro.

Those zoom lenses are handy.

After the cheerleaders had done their stuff we were given a rousing speech from the Daegu big boss. I didn’t understand much but I imagine he chose not to dwell on the brown grass, four month old cold chicken or the local tendency to confuse ice-cream with fish and chips. When he’d finished, we got a firework display which left a haze of smoke over the pitch and gave me an insight into what my life will be like when I’ve developed cataracts.

The players emerged in full-length padded coats. I, meanwhile, was sat shivering in a thin jacket regretting that I could ever have thought Spring had arrived. The latest forecast is that it will be here at the end of March, with Summer then starting two days later. Four seasons, my arse.

Even Big Jack would have struggled to collect all those coats.

Under their heavily insulated jackets, FC Seoul were in their usual AC Milan kit, whilst Daegu were in blue. Smurf blue for those of you who like a little less vagueness.  I noticed that Lee Jin Ho was wearing red gloves and reflected that he was just a white beard short of being dressed as Papa Smurf. It’s not often a mascot gets a game.

Lee Jin Ho.

Thirteen minutes in Yong Kang cracked one into the top corner to put the home side a goal up and spark wild celebrations with their bench and new Brazilian manager.

One-Nil.

At half time I had a hot chocolate and then some ramyeon to try and warm up. A lot of people were leaving, presumably because of the cold. Seoul had a goal disallowed after fifty seven minutes before Molina finally equalised on the break just after the hour.

Second half action.

The rain got a bit heavier as the second half went on and whilst I doubt the players were too pleased, hopefully it will help the potato crop. Seoul looked the more likely of the teams to snatch a victory and went close when hitting the post ten minutes from time. That was enough for me though and not much longer after that I nipped away early. I didn’t want to risk dying of exposure due to not being able to get a taxi. Luckily one stopped straightaway and I was back at Dongdaegu station not long after the game had finished. No one else scored in my absence, with a one all draw being a reasonably fair result.