South Africa v India, Saturday 21st December 2013

January 16, 2014

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It had been a month since we had last got to a match of some sort. We had planned to see the First Division (second tier) game the previous week between Baroka and Vasco da Gama up in Polokwane but the death of Nelson Mandela meant that all the weekend fixtures were cancelled to enable the stadiums to be used for memorial services.

I didn‘t go to any of the organised events but we did have a service  in the car park at work featuring plenty of singing and dancing. It seems that any immediate fears that the country might become less stable as a consequence of Mandela’s death were unfounded. I’d say the general feeling amongst South Africans seems to be one of determination to build upon the spirit of reconciliation that Mandela left as his legacy and to try to avoid ending up like the Zimbabwean neighbours.

That's what we are building.

That’s what we are building.

With the lodge in Polokwane already booked and paid for, we headed up that way despite the lack of football. It’s a three hour drive from where we live and the roads were packed with mini-bus taxis and overloaded pick-ups taking people home for Christmas.

We did a bit of hiking, where we stalked a couple of giraffe and then watched a pair of dung beetles fighting over a specific piece of shite. As the loser slunk away it occurred to me that some battles really aren’t worth winning. The highlights of the weekend though were a walking with lions session at a nearby hotel and then an opportunity to get up close to some three month old cubs.

I'm not sure that pulling a lion's tail is all that wise.

I’m not sure that pulling a lion’s tail is all that wise.

The lion walk involved an hour‘s stroll through the bush with four lions, the oldest of which were around two years old. They had been brought up interacting with humans and so didn‘t seem to have much interest in eating us. Just as well really. We carried big sticks in case they got arsey, but I didn‘t ever feel in any danger.

Later in the day we got to handle some lion cubs. I took it a bit further than I think you are supposed to and teased them in the way that I tend to with dogs. As I focused on avoiding the teeth of the ones in front of me, one of them grabbed me from behind. If the rangers hadn’t been there I might have wrestled with him for a while, but I didn‘t think they’d approve of that.

I was relatively unscathed, with just a few scratches on my back whilst Jen received a bite to one of her legs from one fella who didn’t think he was getting enough attention. Or maybe it was just that biting people is what lions like to do.

Lion attack.

Lion attack.

So that’s the catch-up done and it’s time for the cricket at Wanderers Stadium. India are over here for a two-test series. It’s a shame it isn’t longer really, with the teams being numbers one and two in the world rankings. It’s also a shame that Tendulkar has called it a day, this being the first Test for India since his retirement. Still, I’ll take what I can get.

I’d ordered a couple of tickets online for the fourth day, the Saturday, at seventy rand each. That’s around four quid. Four quid for test cricket! I’m sure it’s around eighty quid a pop to see a day’s play in England these days.

We were cutting it fine for the morning session and I hadn’t bothered to buy Park and Ride tickets. We ran the gauntlet of fellas trying to guide us to a parking space by the side of the road until we reached the barrier that signified the point where the roads were closed off. The sat nav still showed we had a kilometre to go but that was as close as we were going to get in the car.

At that stage we put ourselves in the hands of the parking touts. We were directed to a gated car park around the corner where we were charged a hundred rand for a spot in what, as far as we knew, could just as easily have been somewhere that cars were dismantled for scrap.

A brisk ten minute walk past the hat and flag stalls took us into the ground and our seats in the Memorial Stand. There weren‘t many people in the stadium at that stage, but I suppose when you have all day then there’s no real rush.

Nice tribute.

Nice tribute.

India resumed their second innings on 284 for 2 and with a lead of 326. With Pujara and Kohli well set overnight on 135 and 77 respectively, they were in a pretty decent position. I’d been keen to get there for the start as I’d expected some fairly rapid scoring in the morning session. It wasn’t to be though and India ticked along at two an over for most of the session.

View from the Memorial Stand.

View from the Memorial Stand.

The pace picked up a bit when Dhoni came in to bat but by lunch India had only added another seventy-odd runs for the loss of a further four wickets. It all seemed over-cautious to me, but I suppose they were working on the theory that if they could bat until tea whilst stretching the lead to five hundred then there would be only two possible results.

For Eric.

For Eric.

I took the opportunity to stretch my legs on the field at lunchtime. As usual there were plenty of kids who had brought a bat and ball for a knockabout. One young lad seemed to be taking it all very seriously and was kitted out in full whites plus pads, gloves and even a helmet. There was no shortage of kids keen to have a bowl at him or, I suspect, aim a few deliveries at those rare parts of his body that weren’t protected.

His technique was sound though and he generally managed to defend himself and the bag he was using as a wicket. I wouldn’t be surprised if he ends up playing on the ground for real when he grows up.

"Howzat?"

“Howzat?”

Once everyone had been chased off the field I had a wander around to pick up some food. If I’d had the inclination I could have cooked us some sausages at the braai area that Weber had thoughtfully provided. Judging by the numbers of people who were returning to their seats with boxes of freshly cooked food it was a well-used facility.

Better than cake.

Better than cake.

India picked up the pace after lunch, mainly thanks to Dhoni and Khan who added the majority of the sixty-three runs scored in a little over fourteen overs. There were plenty of Indian fans in the crowd, mostly on the grass bank, and their flags were waved in celebration of every boundary.

With the lead on 457 Shami bowled Tahir to bring the Indian innings to a close, leaving South Africa to bat out four and a half sessions to save the game.

I'm going to be a sports photographer when I grow up.

I’m going to be a sports photographer when I grow up.

It was good to see the hosts attack their target with a sense of purpose. I couldn’t help but think that England in their current state of mind would simply defend or throw their wickets away. South Africa pushed the score along at around four an over and when they passed a hundred without loss a record score in a fourth innings to win a test didn’t seem as unfeasible as it should have been.

The South African crowd certainly had faith and as the afternoon‘s drinking took effect the singing got louder.

The not so barmy army.

The not so barmy army.

Jen and I nipped away during the final session, missing the two wickets to fall before the close. I was tempted to go back for the final day but decided not to as we already had tickets booked for the Orlando Pirates game.

The next day at the football I contented myself with checking the cricket score on my phone as South Africa narrowly failed to pull off what would have been the greatest run chase ever. It was just as well really as I’d have hated the thought of history being made whilst I was just a few miles down the road.

Arcadia Shepherds v Blue Stars, Saturday 23rd November 2013, 3.30pm

January 15, 2014

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As there were only around ten minutes between the fifth tier game that we’d just watched and the fourth tier fixture that followed it on the same pitch, I thought I might as well hang around to see some of the second match.

It probably wouldn’t do any harm to pass on what I know about the structure of South African domestic football at this time. Top of the pile is the Premier Soccer League which gets around ninety-five percent of the overall media coverage. I suppose that’s how Premier Leagues are these days. The PSL is made up of sixteen clubs and the team that finishes bottom of the table gets relegated to the National First Division, whilst second bottom gets the chance of a reprieve via a play-off.

The National First Division also comprises sixteen teams of which one or two gain promotion to the PSL each year. Two teams are relegated to the third tier. The fixtures for the second tier are listed in a weekly sports paper but that’s about all the coverage it gets.

The third tier is the National Second Division, formerly known as the Vodacom League. It consists of nine regional leagues, each with sixteen teams. It gets minimal coverage and by that I mean that the only thing I can occasionally find is a weekly round-up of local results from a  newspaper in Limpopo. Dogs getting ran over get bigger headlines. So far I haven’t even been able to find a list of the teams competing at this level, never mind a fixture list or table.

There’s another set of regional leagues next that were formerly named after Castle beer. That level is known as the SAB League these days. Again, there is next to no information available. It’s a shame really as I expect there will be some interesting grounds at the lower levels.

From what I can see, the fifth tier is known as the Superleague, or at least it is in the group of eight that Arcadia Shepherds and Glenwegians play in. I’ve no idea if it is the same all over Pretoria, never mind Gauteng or the country as a whole. Hopefully I’ll stumble across more information as time goes by.

Time for a photo.

Time for a photo.

So, that’s how the leagues work. Or at least I think that’s how it is. I can tell you a bit about the Caledonian Stadium too. It was a greyhound stadium up until 1903. That’s the year that Arcadia Shepherds were formed. Hmm, coincidence?

Much as I like football I’m not keen on facilities such as greyhound tracks being taken away for alternative use. I used to love going to Cleveland Park to watch the dogs race and replacing it with a few five a side pitches and a school playing field has never struck me as a good move.

So, after the equally vague details of the league structure and the history of the stadium, on to the game itself. Arcadia Shepherds were in a white kit for this one, with Blue Stars in what I assume to be their traditional blue.

As kick-off approached we were treated to a pre-match prayer session from the Shepherds.

"Forgive us our trespasses into offside positions"

“Forgive us our trespasses into offside positions”

The fourth tier seems a bit more organised than the fifth and the game commenced with a full set of linesmen and corner flags. One of the assistants was the ref from the game that had just finished so in hindsight it’s probably no surprise that he had been pacing himself. The official on the other side was a woman who actually looked shorter than the corner flag. I doubted that those little legs would be getting up and down the pitch very quickly either.

Corner flags and officials, what more could you ask for?

Corner flags and officials, what more could you ask for?

Another indication that this match was more prestigious than the previous one was that the cage that protects the players as they emerge from the tunnel had been dragged into place. It didn’t really serve any other purpose than trying to suggest a greater sense of occasion than was warranted. Similar to the ball boys you can buy for Subbuteo, I suppose.

The view from the main stand.

The view from the main stand.

There was a larger crowd this time, maybe sixty, although it did include a few of the players from the game that had just finished. With the afternoon drawing on there was plenty of beer and wine being drunk.

"Come on ye Shepherds"

“Come on ye Shepherds”

As for the action, it was definitely a higher standard than the game before, although that’s not much of a compliment. Arcadia opened the scoring after five minutes when someone looped a header into the top corner.

Good as it all was, we had other stuff to do and back to back games were interfering with it. Twenty minutes were long enough to snap a few photos and so after that we left them to it.

Arcadia Shepherds v Glenwegians, Saturday 23rd November 2013. 1.30pm

January 8, 2014

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After seeing some top-tier football in World Cup stadiums it was time to watch something closer to the game’s grass roots. We’d driven past Caledonian Stadium in Pretoria on a couple of occasions and a bit of research revealed that Arcadia Shepherds played their division five ‘Superleague‘ fixtures at that ground.

The same research also revealed that Bobby Charlton had made a guest appearance for the Shepherds in the mid-seventies. I wonder how he feels nowadays about making the trip in that isolated apartheid era.

I saw Bobby Charlton play at Sunderland, around 1977, in a testimonial game for Billy Hughes. The Dad of one of my mates supported Sunderland and so he took us up to watch. It was a decent gesture from Charlton to play, as I’m sure his appearance will have added to the gate receipts. We showed our appreciation in the way that twelve year olds do by shouting “Baldy“ at him, whenever he came over to our side of the pitch. He stared at us and you could see that he was wondering why he had bothered turning out.

Arcadia Shepherds without Bobby Charlton.

Arcadia Shepherds without Bobby Charlton.

The game was a few minutes late in kicking off, probably due to the ref not seeming to arrive until twenty past one. At least he got there. The linesmen didn’t show up at all and the game was ten minutes old before anyone bothered to put the corner flags up.

For those interested, Arcadia were in a red, white and black kit whilst opponents Glenwegians wore white with green trim.

The view from the main stand.

The view from the main stand.

Midway through the first half the Glenwegian captain tapped home a loose ball to put his team ahead. I’d long realised by that time that the standard wasn’t up to much. It seemed like classic lower level Sunday League, with a mixture of keen young lads and older, out of condition, fat knackers.

The goalmouths were worn, school-style and I noticed the away team’s manager was smoking a fag in the dug-out. As were a couple of the subs.

One of the Arcadia players got a red card ten minutes before half-time. He was unlucky really as there were outrageous tackles going unpunished all over the pitch. His offence resulted in a punch-up close to the half-way line and as the ref rarely moved out of the centre circle it meant that, for once, he was handily placed.

Right on the spot.

Right on the spot.

As the kid trudged off he grabbed his car keys from one of the subs in the dugout. I was hoping that we might get a repeat of one of the highlights of my Sunday League career in which a player who had been sent off returned in his Cortina and scattered opponents, team mates and officials by driving across the centre of the pitch on his way home. No such luck on this occasion though.

There were about fifteen fans in the main stand to start with and another five peering through the fence despite it being free to get in. A few more filed in as the game went on with the total crowd perhaps peaking at forty.

I can't walk past a game without stopping to watch either.

I can’t walk past a game without stopping to watch either.

The half-time break was the shortest I’d experienced since primary school, with the combination of the late kick-off and another game scheduled for that afternoon resulting in the players getting to sit down for precisely eight minutes.

Ten minutes into the re-start, a long punt downfield bounced over the away keepers outstretched arms and an Arcadia player beat him to the ball to prod it into the empty net. One each. It was around this time when the players for the next game started appearing. They warmed up along the side of the pitch, just about doubling the crowd in the process.

Parity didn’t last long as the Arcadia persistence with long ball tactics paid off. The next hoof was chased by a fella who was at least three yards offside. The lack of linesmen, compounded by the lack of mobility of the ref, meant that he got away with it and he finished well, much to the fury of the visiting players.

The main stand.

The main stand.

The fun wasn’t over though. At least not for those of us watching. The Glenwegian captain had spent all afternoon complaining to anyone in earshot about life’s unfairness. He finally got something genuine to cry about when he took a blast to the nuts from close range. It looked as if all his team’s subs had already been used as well. Or perhaps one of them had just lit a fag up and was reluctant to leave the comfort of the dugout. Whatever the reasoning, Captain Marvel staggered around for a couple of minutes before deciding that his lack of mobility meant that he would have to go in goal.

He swapped shirts with the keeper and the game resumed. Or at least it did until the ref noticed the switch and ordered the former keeper off to swap his black goalie shorts for a white pair that matched those of his outfield teammates. I got the impression that Glenwegians didn’t have much spare kit as it took a while to find a pair. Apparently it would have taken even longer to find a pair that fitted and so the former goalie rejoined the game in shorts at least a couple of sizes too small. It wasn’t a problem for long though as the ref promptly waved him back off the pitch. This time to change his black socks for white ones.

A bit of the action.

A bit of the action.

Insisting on matching socks seemed a little excessive to me in a game that was taking place in front of forty fans and  without any linesmen. Although if I’d been on the end of the incessant Glenwegian yapping I might very well have done the same.

Overcoming his struggle to sit down in his too tight shorts, the fella eventually changed his socks and re-joined the game. He didn’t get long to make an impact though as the ref, who was obviously conscious of the late kick-off and the players for the next game loitering on the sidelines, blew for time a couple of minutes early, denying the visiting team the chance of a last gasp leveller.

Despite the standard of football being the lowest I’ve encountered since my own playing days, it was a very entertaining afternoon.

Mpumalanga Black Aces v Ajax Cape Town, Saturday 9th November 2013, 3.30pm

January 8, 2014

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For this weeks game Jen and I headed off to Mpumalanga and the match at Nelspruit between the Black Aces and Ajax Cape Town. It’s a three hour drive or so from Bronkhorstpruit and it took us up into a picturesque part of the country.

We’d hoped to see a few waterfalls and other sights, but with the fog and the mist the best we managed over the weekend was a couple of hours at Pilgrim’s Rest, a small town popular as a coach trip destination for old age pensioners who like to buy mass-produced Chinese tat.

We were just about the only people with a car.

We were just about the only people with our own teeth.

Nelspruit got itself a new stadium for the World Cup. The Mbombela Stadium, as it’s known, is the one with the Zebra pattern on the seats. I had a look at the list of the four games that were played there but didn‘t remember any of them. Oh well. Maybe that’s more a reflection on my memory than the quality of the games. Perhaps it wont be long before I’ll be on the bus trips to buy ‘hand carved‘ tribal masks.

Mbombela Stadium.

Mbombela Stadium.

Mbombela is a good ground though, with a forty thousand capacity and no running track. We’d bought our tickets in advance online for forty rand. Not that we needed to as the crowd peaked at about a thousand. I wonder how much of a legacy the World Cup has left? It’s fine having these new stadiums but if people aren’t going to turn up then what’s the point?

I’ve read that the stadium has been used for rugby as well, but at the one game of egg chasing that we‘ve been to over here there were only around a thousand people at that too. It’s hard to argue with the notion that the original Nelspruit stadium was all that the town had ever needed.

Note the zebra patterned seats.

Note the zebra patterned seats.

And so what else caught my eye? Well, Ajax had a Finnish keeper, Anssi Jaakola, if that’s of any interest. He recently had a spell at Kilmarnock and before that had turned out at Siena with Boro legend Massimo Maccarone.

Jaakola didn’t have much to do in the first half, with probably his only chance to shine coming when he punched a shot away just before the interval. Meanwhile his team mates rarely threatened the opposition and stealing the Ajax name was as close as they got to Total Football.

The Finnish fella takes a cross.

The Finnish fella takes a cross.

The second half saw a bit more pressure from the Black Aces with their striker Elliot Khenyeza going close on a couple of occasions. He just didn’t quite have the pace to lose the last defender, although as his shorts came down to below his knees I think it may very well have been poor aerodynamics that was costing him that extra yard.

The home fans.

The home fans.

The home side had a few penalty shouts as the game went on. I didn’t think any of them actually were penalties but I was expecting the ref to eventually award one as a result of the cumulative appeals. He didn’t though, resisting the pressure or chickening out, depending on your allegiance.

All that was left was for the Finnish fella to make a couple of fine saves at the death and that was it. A goalless draw, but an enjoyable game nevertheless.

Kaizer Chiefs v Orlando Pirates, Saturday 26th October 2013, 3.30pm

January 8, 2014

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Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates are the big two in South African football, making the Soweto derby one of the highlights of the season. Chiefs had home advantage on this occasion and so that meant a trip to the FNB Stadium.

I’d been there before. My mate Paul and I had paid a couple of visits during the World Cup, watching Holland play Denmark and then Argentina take on South Korea. That last game featured Diego Maradona stomping up and down the sideline as his country’s coach. It’s the only time I’ve seen him in real life. I’d have loved to have seen him as a player.

Argentina fans in 2010.

Argentina fans in 2010.

I’d had a check as to how many fans normally turn up for this game and it looks as if around eighty thousand is the norm. The papers were reporting that it might even sell out which would be pretty impressive in a ninety-four thousand capacity stadium.

Normally you would expect these two teams to be up at the top end of the league and whilst Kaizer Chiefs were in their usual position, Orlando Pirates were propping up the table. It was a false position though as lengthy cup runs had meant that despite this being the Pirates seventeenth game of the season, it was only their third in the league. By comparison, most of the other clubs had already played seven or eight PSL games. The gap would soon widen a bit more as the Pirates had a two-legged Champions League final to follow this game.

The journey to the stadium was a bit of an arse on, with all four or five lanes of the road down to crawling pace. It was a bit much for one fella who got out of his car and punched the bloke in the vehicle behind. I suppose there’s only so long you can amuse yourself with games of I-Spy. We later passed them all parked up on the hard shoulder putting their respective sides of the story to the police.

Despite the traffic we arrived at the FNB Stadium around an hour and a half early. The car parking was a bit chaotic and even though we had pre-booked a spot in a secure car park we were waved into a field that looked about as secure as leaving your front door open with a sign on it saying ‘Big Telly Inside’.

As we walked through the field towards the stadium, Jen and I were offered hats, flags and any manner of food cooked on open fires. One bloke was insistent that he should stamp our arms with a team badge for the bargain fee of five rand. In the end he gave me a Chiefs stamp on one arm and a Pirates one on the other. Great, ten rand to potentially provoke a kicking from both sets of supporters then.

I'd expected the car to have already been stolen by this point.

I’d expected the car to have already been stolen by this point.

Not surprisingly, the stadium was far from full as we took our seats with an hour to go before the teams came out. The ground staff were preparing for the game by scattering what looked like green sawdust over any bare patches on the pitch to make it look better for the cameras.

As kick-off approached we stood for a minute’s silence in respect of some fans who had recently died in a traffic incident. If the driving and punch up that we had seen earlier were any indication then there is probably a minute’s silence every game.

The FNB Stadium.

The FNB Stadium.

With the game underway, the ground continued to fill up. I’d estimate around forty thousand to start with, rising eventually to around seventy thousand. The attendance was, once again, reported as eighty thousand. Perhaps that’s just how it’s done here.

There was no segregation and the fans freely mixed with each other, taking the piss whenever circumstances on the pitch allowed. As per the previous week there were also plenty of people wearing other team’s shirts.

An early goal from the visitors was celebrated by a fair proportion of the stadium before being cancelled out later in the half by a Chiefs equaliser that might well have been offside.

Goal!!

Goal!!

There was a fair bit of showboating from the players. One fella in particular would have been Cattermoled in England for some of his tricks. In the second half we had a twenty two man punch up to liven things up, more than twenty two men actually, if you count the physio and coaching staff that got involved. There weren’t any more goals though and it finished up one each.

Someone going close.

Someone going close.

We nipped out a couple of minutes early only to find that we were blocked in by the random parking in the field. The bloke who had followed us for a hundred yards back to the car to collect his five rand for minding it commiserated but was of little practical help.

It’s a company car though and so I was able to squeeze it through the tiniest of gaps between a couple of vans and make a prompt getaway. Next time I’m here I’ll try and find the ‘proper’ secure parking.

Supersport United v Moroka Swallows, Saturday 19th October 2013, 3pm

January 7, 2014

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Time for our first football game. Or rather the first football game of this visit to South Africa. I’d been here before for the 2010 World Cup and it was that trip that had me thinking that I’d be happy to live here someday. Three years on, here we are.

It’s fairly hot in South Africa at this time of year, although it’s prone to thunderstorms late in the afternoon and so to get the most out of the day we got up early and were hiking at Groenkloof Nature Reserve by 7am.

We did about ten miles along the various trails, getting up close to zebras in particular. We’d seen a couple of giraffes there the previous week but couldn’t find them this time.

You know what zebras look like, so here's a Guinea Fowl instead.

You know what zebras look like, so here’s a Guinea Fowl instead.

Hiking done we set off for the Lucas Moripe stadium in Atteridgeville where Supersport United play their home games. It’s a township on the edge of Pretoria with a lot of single storey houses with corrugated iron roofs. A quick check on Wikipedia suggests that only 0.2% of the population are white. That tallies with what we saw as we drove towards the stadium and was a bit of an about turn from the rugby match crowd the previous week.

I hadn’t been able to pre-book parking but talked my way into the Media Car park with the help of a fifty rand note. Just as I was getting out of the car I got a call from the Security Manager at work. The cars are fitted with trackers and he gets an alert whenever anyone goes anywhere considered dangerous. I was able to reassure him by confirming that nobody had tried to murder us so far and that we would be out of there before it got dark.

Incidentally, we have two panic buttons in the car in case we, well, panic I suppose. One under the steering wheel and the other in the boot for those occasions when you accidentally fall in whilst loading your shopping.

I can’t remember exactly how much the tickets cost, but I think they were around forty rand. The Lucas Moripe Stadium is a twenty nine thousand capacity bowl with a running track and one covered stand. There’s a nice view of a hillside where rocks have been strategically placed to spell out support for the ANC.

The Lucas Moripe Stadium.

The Lucas Moripe Stadium.

Supersport United and Moroka Swallows are both in the top tier Premier Soccer League, but this game was a quarter final of the Telekom Cup. There weren’t many chances early on despite the best efforts of one of the away defenders who seemed determined to set the opposition up. He waved an arm in the air in apology more times in the opening half hour than Curtis Fleming would have done in a month.

Nobody capitalised on the errors though and the teams went off goalless at half time. I got myself some chicken and pap from a stall on the opposite side of the ground. Pap is like mash, but made from maize. I can’t see it catching on in the UK.

The chicken was good though.

The chicken was good though.

People were still coming in as the second half started, but I doubt the total attendance was more than a thousand. The home fans who weren’t sat up in the main stand were grouped together on the opposite side doing that African bobbing up and down from one foot to the other dancing, a bit like ten year old boys at a school disco or middle aged men at a Specials concert.

They had a few brass instruments to accompany them and didn’t seem to be to be at all bothered by whatever was happening on the pitch.

Supersport fans.

Supersport fans.

There was a smaller group of Swallows fans just to the left of the home support and they were making just as much noise. There was no animosity between the two groups and none of the singing or chanting appeared to be aimed at the opposing supporters. Mind you, none of it seemed aimed at the pitch either, it just looked to be a bunch of people who had gone out for a sing and a dance and by chance happened to be doing it near a football pitch.

Swallows fans.

Swallows fans.

An opening goal on the hour from Supersport was quickly cancelled out by the visitors. A series of good saves from the Swallows keeper then took the game into extra-time. I wasn’t too pleased with that as the rain looked imminent and I had been hoping to be back in the car before it started.

Substitute Phulo Thala put the home side back in front just before the end of the first period of extra-time and his team mate George Maluleka then added another soon after the re-start to clinch the semi-final spot for Supersport.

That was enough for us and we cleared off early in an attempt to avoid the rain and the murdering.

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Golden Lions v Griquas, Sunday 12th October 2013, 3pm

January 7, 2014

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Well, after a summer of uncertainty as to where we would end up we finally got to South Africa, where I’m working on the construction of a bloody big power station. It’s way off being finished and so I hope to be here for long enough to see plenty of whatever this part of the world has to offer.

Jen and I had already been in the country for a couple of weeks before we made it to a match. We hadn’t been entirely idle though. Apart from the usual settling in stuff we’d managed a couple of hikes including a walk around the Tswaing Crater. It’s a big hole in the ground caused by a meteorite or something. We’d seen a similar crater earlier in the summer in Iceland, funnily enough. This one was bigger though.

No old bikes or shopping carts in this one either.

No old bikes or shopping carts in this one either.

We’d also paid a visit to a Cheetah Sanctuary. That was ok, particularly the bit where we got to pat a tame one. Or a drugged one. They had wild dogs and vultures too, although we weren’t allowed to pat any of those. Never mind, there should be plenty of time for that sort of thing in the future.

He'd have your arm off, apparently.

He’d have your arm off, apparently.

Good as all that wildlife stuff is, it’s African sport that I plan to be writing about. Mainly football, I’d expect, but I’m planning on watching a fair bit of cricket and rugby too when I get the chance. It’s rugby that we’ll start things off with and a Currie Cup game at Ellis Park between Golden Lions and Griquas.

Ellis Park is the place where South Africa won the World Cup in ’95. That was the tournament where Jonah Lomu trampled over half the England team in the semi-final. He didn’t manage to do the same in the final though and you might remember Nelson Mandela in his Springbok shirt handing over the trophy to Francois Pienaar.

Remember this?

Remember this?

We’d been staying in one of those posh gated communities near Pretoria and so it wasn’t much of an effort to get to Johannesburg. One thing that struck me on the drive over was the number of people walking alongside the roads. A lot of the women tend to balance boxes, no-handed, on their head as they stroll along. The sight of one dressed in grey had me slamming on my brakes as I waited for the inevitable camera flash.

As we approached Ellis Park we encountered the parking attendants. I’m not sure how many of them were official and how many of them were just dressed up in a high visibility vest so that they could guide people into parking by the side of the road for a fee.

We’d pre-paid for parking and so just flashed the ticket to be waived on towards the stadium. On one occasion I ignored the fella, causing him to run fifty yards after the car to try to see the ticket. We were eventually directed to the car park of the stadium next door and had a five minute walk from the car. It all seemed safe enough as we made our way into the ground.

Plenty to eat.

Plenty to eat.

We had eighty rand tickets for the West Stand. That’s near enough a fiver. Cheap enough to expect a decent crowd I’d have thought, but no. There were only about a thousand people there, although the season was drawing to an end and I got the impression that the Currie Cup wasn’t as much of an attraction as the Super 14 competition or whatever it’s called these days.

The crowd near us.

The crowd near us.

Those that were there were entertained pre-match by cheerleaders. They were a bit porkier than the ones I’d watched at the sporting events in Korea, but a little more gymnastic rather than just decorative.

So, what else can I tell you? There are fellas who serve drinks and ice creams at your seat. I had a bottle of something called granadilla. No idea what it was. Maybe something similar to pineapple. The other point of note was that people booed when the kickers were taking their penalties and conversions. I didn’t think rugby fans did that.

An action shot.

An action shot.

And the game? Well, I’m fairly sure that the visiting Griquas team had already been eliminated from the competition, whilst if the Lions won this final group stage fixture then they would progress through to the semi-finals.

Whilst it looked at times as if the Lions players wouldn’t be too unhappy about losing and concluding their season that afternoon, they did eventually win to take their place in the semi-finals and delay the start of their holidays by another week.

It was an easy introduction to South African sport for us. Pre-paid secure parking, a low crowd in a reasonably safe area and ice creams brought to our seats. I doubt it will be like that every week.

Middlesex v Somerset, 28th August 2013

January 7, 2014

0 - grace gates

I’m getting on for fifty and this was my first visit to Lords. That’s strange really considering I spent a year in London in the mid-eighties and have no doubt had plenty of opportunities since.

Whatever. Jen and I had dropped off our visa applications at the South African Consulate that morning and whilst she headed off for a lunch with a friend I took a cab to the cricket. I got there a few overs before the end of the first session and if I remember rightly it was seventeen quid to get in.

That seems a bit steep for a meaningless end of season county championship fixture, but I suppose it was London, where everything costs that bit more.

I wasn't allowed in that bit.

I wasn’t allowed in that bit.

It was the first day of the game and Somerset were batting. I’d missed the opportunity to see Nick Compton, who was already out, but his fellow former England cricketer Marcus Trescothick seemed well set for a decent score.

Because I know some of you have an interest in scoreboards.

Because I know some of you have an interest in scoreboards.

I had a lamb pie for lunch, with mash I think. It was one of those posh pies that you get at the music festivals. I might have even have gone back for a second. That’s allowed at the cricket though.

Trescothick on strike.

Trescothick on strike.

There wasn’t much of a crowd. The Member’s Pavilion had quite a few people in it and there were a couple of hundred blokes in the stand I was sat in, but that was about it. The stand opposite was just about empty, although as the wicket was right over towards our side that wasn’t really surprising.

I was probably one of the youngest people in the crowd, although there were a smattering of small kids spending the arse end of the school holidays with their grandad.

I can see the attraction of county cricket for retired blokes. You can take your paper, flask and sandwiches and just idle away a day. It’s better than going to work as you are outside and don’t have to pretend to be busy.

Slightly busier over there.

Slightly busier over there.

Runs were scored and wickets fell steadily throughout the afternoon. At the tea interval I had a look around the museum. It’s interesting enough if, like me, you enjoy looking at stuff from the olden days.

I had an ice cream and then cleared off not too long into the final session as we had a train to catch. If you have to go to London for a visa, a trip to Lords makes it a much better day.

Stotfold v Hadley, Tuesday August 27th 2013, 7.45pm

January 6, 2014

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This one turned out to be my last English football match of 2013. Or at least the last non-Boro match as I was able to squeeze in the home game against Bournemouth and an away trip to Nottingham before Jen and I left for a new job in South Africa.

I don’t write about the Boro games though so you’ll just have to imagine the joy of throwing away a two goal lead against Forest and then dropping another two points to a late equaliser in the Bournemouth match.

I did get to stand all game though.

I did get to stand all game though.

The visit to Stotfold was brought about by the need to drop off visa applications at the South African Consulate. As you might know, it’s actually in London, but I thought that staying outside of the city and just getting the train in for the day might be more enjoyable.

We booked into somewhere in a village called Great Offley. It was quite posh by our standards but it had a footpath passing through the grounds of the hotel that allowed us to go for a hike. We’ve spent a lot of time walking this summer and probably the thing that sticks in my mind the most is the number of game birds that we’ve disturbed. There didn’t seem to be a hedgerow in England or Scotland that wasn’t full of grouse, partridge or pheasant. Or at least there wasn’t until we walked past and scattered them each time.

These two tried running away.

These two tried running away.

Stotfold isn‘t too far from Great Offley and when I spotted that their football team was at home to Hadley in a Level Nine Spartan South Midlands League Premier Division clash, I had a drive down to their Roker Park ground. Yes, Roker Park. You thought it had long gone didn’t you?

Despite its famous name Roker Park wasn’t the easiest place to find, even with a sat nav in the car and that blue dot thing on my phone. Eventually I spotted a sign on a gatepost and parked up nearby.

It's hidden down that lane.

It’s hidden down that lane.

It was six quid to get in, the same as the pre-season friendly that I’d seen recently in Sudbury. That must be the going rate these days. The woman on the gate sold me a programme for a quid as well, just in case I needed the contact information for a variety of local tradesmen.

She wasn't too happy to be photographed.

She wasn’t too happy to be photographed.

There weren’t too many people there, maybe a hundred or so. That seems fairly constant at this level too. Most of them were dotted around the Bill Clegg Stand. As you might have guessed I’ve no idea who Bill is. He does sound a bit northern though so I’m sure he’s a decent bloke.

The Foggy and Compo stands will be next.

The Foggy and Compo stands will be next.

The highlight of the evening was being served a cup of tea in a ceramic mug at half-time. I don’t normally drink tea, but on this occasion it felt like the right thing to do. Drinking it out of a proper cup that you were obliged to return when you’d finished made it all a lot friendlier. I don’t know why, but it just did. Homely even. Perhaps it’s the trust. There should be more of that sort of thing, although if I were doing the washing up I might think differently.

The tea hut.

The tea hut.

As for the game and the score, I can’t remember. I think it might have been one-nil, but I’ve no idea who to. Maybe I should write these things a bit sooner after the event.

HNK Rijeka v Dinamo Zagreb, 28th July 2013, 7pm

January 5, 2014

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I’m not sure if I’d been to Croatia before this trip. I went to Yugoslavia in the mid-eighties and I’ve a feeling that I might well have stayed briefly in one or more of the towns along that coast opposite Italy but I’ve no idea really. Not that it matters, it was just that some of the names and sights seemed somewhat familiar. From what I do remember, Yugoslavia wasn’t much cop in those days. The beer tasted like Ribena and the bars closed around nine in the evening. That’s not what you want when you are twenty and so on that occasion we didn’t hang around.

These days I appreciate the quiet life, even if I’m still not too enthusiastic about Ribena flavoured beer and so Jen and I were happy to stay in the countryside near Porec. As old people tend to do we had a look at some of the towns nearby such as Pula and Rovinj. One of them had a big Roman building.

Some culture for you.

Some culture for you.

We even managed a day trip across to Venice, somewhere else I hadn’t been since the mid-eighties. It seemed a lot busier than I remembered it. Isn’t everywhere though?

There’s also a hiking trail in the area, Saint Simeon’s Way, and we walked a section of that on what felt like it might have been the hottest day of the year. Ideal for a fruit based drink I’d say. Maybe it all makes sense after all.

It's a picturesque part of the world.

It’s a picturesque part of the world.

The good news is that the Croatian football season starts early and there was a game taking place at Rijeka, around eighty kilometres away from our apartment. We had to drive through a mountain range, a job made easier by the bloody big tunnel that went five kilometres through the hillside.

Stadion Kantrida

Stadion Kantrida

Rijeka has a ten thousand capacity stadium by the seaside. Handy really, as at thirty-five degrees it allowed fans the option of cooling down at the beach before the game. They’ve also got a sort of Braga-lite cliff down one side of a stadium. The only bad point is the running track that encircles the pitch.

The area around the ground was busy when we arrived and the home sections had already sold out. Fortunately we were able to pick up tickets for the Dynamo end for forty Kuna each. That‘s about five quid. As we went in we were searched by a copper who, on discovering that we weren’t concealing any weapons, advised us not to go into the away section.

“Bad, bad, bad” was his description of the visiting fans and he guided us toward the sold-out home section nearby instead.

I doubt these fella's issue many Section 27 Orders.

I doubt these fellas issue many Section 27 Notices.

Safe as our new seats were, I’d have prefered something with a little shade. There were a few blokes with the right idea behind the opposite goal. They had somehow managed to nab seats in a bar that overlooked the pitch. That’s my type of terrace.

View from behind the goal as the sun went down.

View from behind the goal as the sun went down.

Midway through the first half the game stopped for a water break. I wonder how long it will be before this becomes compulsory regardless of the heat. I find it hard to believe that the television companies and, as the money trickles down, the clubs and ultimately the players, are prepared to forgo that extra minute of advertising revenue. When the World Cup gets to Qatar I’d expect two breaks per half, probably of two minutes each.

On a less cynical note I was pleased to see bottles of water handed to the away fans. They didn’t have access to a drinks kiosk and  I imagine being “Bad, bad, bad” all day is thirsty work.

Dynamo had most of the attacking play as the half progressed but they weren’t able to make it count and went in at the interval with the game still goalless.

Rijeka fans and their flares.

Rijeka fans and their flares.

Rijeka started the second half more positively, but they too weren’t able to take their chances. On the hour, and with the sun just dipping down behind what I think were the Ukla mountains, the home flares came out. An hour. Such patience. I’m the sort of fella that lets the fireworks off on New Years Eve once I’ve had that first can of beer, even if that is at four in the afternoon. Waiting an hour at a football game shows willpower far beyond me.

Bad, bad, bad.

Bad, bad, bad.

Ten minutes later it was the turn of the away fans. As well as showing even greater patience they had also brought a lot more flares. Whereas the Rijeka fans had been content to hold their pyrotechnics, the Zagreb fans rained them down onto the pitch, or at least the ones who could clear the running track did.

I could now see why we had a fire engine standing by, with around thirty flares burning merrily away around the goalmouth.

Maybe that's why there is a running track.

Maybe that’s why there is a running track.

That was about it, action wise. The game finished nil–nil and the point consolidated the visitor’s position at the top of the table. As Dynamo had won the league in each of the previous eight seasons I don’t suppose Rijeka could be too disappointed about dropping home points.

In case the flares weren’t enough Rijeka thoughtfully provided post-match firework display for the mile long walk back to the car.