Darwin Buffaloes v Palmerston, Saturday 10th October 2015, 4.30pm

November 15, 2015

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After spending the last couple of years in Africa, it looks as if the next two will be spent in Australia as I’ve taken a job at Darwin in the Northern Territories. Climate wise, it’s hot and humid, which is no big deal when I’m in an air-conditioned office or apartment, but it’s not the sort of place where you’d want to spend much time outside at mid-day.

Evenings are fine though and when taking a stroll down towards the harbour area Jen and I have spotted a whole new selection of birds. I presume none of them ever fly anywhere for the summer or winter as I’ve not seen them anywhere else in the world. In a way, it makes me think that I should be ticking them off a list, or underlining their names in a book, but there’s only so much of that stuff you can do and I suspect I’ve probably got more record keeping spreadsheets than is healthy.

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There are bats as well. As it turns to dusk they will appear from wherever they spend the daytime and land in whatever tree is best for the bugs or berries that they eat. Sometimes we’ll sit in a seat nearby and watch them climb from branch to branch, using paws that I’d never realised they had on the ends of their wings.

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When I was a kid we’d see bats in St Mary’s church in Norton. They seemed much scarier in a graveyard after dark, particularly one where the vicar had a tendency to walk around wearing a cloak. Occasionally we’d take younger kids there, ostensibly on a bat hunt, and then scare the shit out of them by one of us emerging from behind a gravestone wearing a monk costume from an old school play.

One time we thought we’d make it a little scarier by emptying out the contents of a firework onto a gravestone and creating a flash of light known, at those times, as a ‘genie’. Whilst a couple of mates led the unsuspecting victims towards us, I lit the match whilst Nico stood by complete with hooded costume and an impressive, from a distance, four-foot long wooden sword.

It worked like a dream. The firework powder created an explosion of light that perfectly illuminated the monk and his sword, causing the younger kids to scream and run. Unfortunately we hadn’t closed our eyes and so were temporarily blinded by the flash. The consequence of which was that when making our hurried escape we couldn’t see any of the tombstones that stood between us and the far wall.

We must have fallen half a dozen times as we collided with shin level grave markers and ended up exiting the churchyard with far more cuts and bruises than we’d have got in a kicking from the vicar.

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I’ve not seen any fireworks in Darwin, or any graveyards come to think of it, so I doubt I’ll get up to much like that over here.

What I have seen though was some Aussie Rules football, or as it’s more simply known over here ‘footy’. The opening weekend of the new season had four games in a row at the TIO Stadium which is situated a little way outside of town. I’m not sure how far but it was thirty dollars in a taxi.

The travel costs were offset by the ten dollar admission charge. Not bad for four games of football, although at the time we arrived for the third game, there were only a couple of hundred people inside the ground.

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Aussie Rules is an odd game. You have eighteen players on each side, at least I think it was eighteen. It was hard to tell as they don’t seem to have any restrictions as to who goes onto the pitch. Physios will run on to treat injured players. Waterboys will jog around the centre of the field offering the players a drink and the coaches will sprint to the far side to give a player advice or a bollocking directly to his face.

At times it looked just like kids being let into the playground for a break with people running in different directions, colliding with each other, or stood chatting a hundred yards from the ball. If you’d let a couple of dogs loose onto the field I doubt anyone would have noticed.

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The food and drink wasn’t up to much. I suspect that the chicken and chips I had were left over from the previous season, whilst the beer was limited to 3.5% alcohol content. My first can of Carlton Mid wasn’t too bad, although perhaps that first beer on a hot day feeling clouded my judgement.

I tried a Carlton Cold next. There’s a television show in there somewhere with a tag line of “You’ve been Carlton Coled” and featuring the former West Ham striker pranking people. Or maybe pranking football clubs by somehow getting them to give him a contract and then smirking and opening a beer.

Anyway, the beer was terrible. Cold, I’ll concede, but terrible nevertheless. I felt as if I’d been Carlton Coled.

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One other oddity was the insistence of the linesmen taking the throw-ins themselves. In an attempt to appear impartial they faced away from the pitch and lobbed the ball backwards over their heads. If they didn’t want to see where they were throwing it I’d have been happy to light a genie in front of their faces and temporarily ruin their vision that way. It would have seemed no less bizarre than everything else that was going on.

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And the result? Well, Darwin got around a hundred points and local rivals Palmerston seventy-odd, I think. The reason they get so many points is that you get six for kicking the ball between the two middle posts and one point if you fail but still get it inside one of the outer posts.

I’d recommend they simplify matters by getting rid of the outer posts and making it a one point score (or a goal) for getting the ball between the inner posts. All you’d need then are crossbars and goalies and you’d have a decent game.

Middlesbrough v Wolves, Tuesday 22nd September 2015, 7.45pm

October 18, 2015

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I’d planned to go to a couple of Northern League games whilst we were in the UK. I’d actually planned to do a lot of things, more I suppose than was realistic, but in the end as far as the football was concerned my second visit of the trip (and season) to the Riverside was as much as I could manage.

Whilst we missed out on the lower-league action, Jen and I did get around to doing another section of the Cleveland Way, this time from Battersby Moor to Clay Bank and back again. It raised a few eyebrows amongst other hikers when after descending Clay Bank we turned straight around and went back up it again, but I like doing these trails in both directions and it would have been cheating if we’d missed a couple of hundred yards out to avoid the steep bits.

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The walk was pretty good, with grouse breaking cover as we passed by. Unfortunately for them there was a shooting party out for the day and so they’d have probably been better sitting quietly.

After some light rain early on it cleared up nicely and by the time we got back to the car at Battersby Moor just after lunch we’d managed fourteen miles, our longest walk of the year so far.

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In other news, we celebrated my Mam and Dad’s diamond wedding anniversary whilst we were in the UK. Sixty years. I’ll need to live to be 108 if Jen and I are to reach that milestone.

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And so to the match.

If I mention Boro v Wolves in the cup what do you think of? That’s right, 1981 and John Neal’s team going out in a quarter-final replay at Molineux. As we waited for the teams to come out I cast my mind back to the home tie nearly thirty-five years ago.  George Berry and Billy Ashcroft with their afros, Craig Johnston and his straight-backed running style, similar, come to think of it, to that of Diego Fabbrini.

We’d arrived three hours early on that occasion so that we could be in the centre of a packed Holgate. Ever the fashionista, I was wearing an afghan coat and by half-time I was close to needing an intravenous drip to re-hydrate.

Andy Gray headed them into an early lead, before Terry Cochrane and his rolled down socks started and finished the move that drew us level and earned the replay.

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This occasion in the Carling Cup third round was a lot less of an ordeal. A goal from Adomah close to half-time set us on our way before two more goals early in the second half made it a relaxing last thirty minutes.

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That was it, UK-wise, or at least it will be for the next few months anyway. Two days later we flew out to Australia. Next stop, the A-League.

 

Middlesbrough v Brentford, Tuesday 15th September 2015, 7.45pm

September 29, 2015

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Within a day of arriving back in England I was able to get along to the Riverside for my first Boro game of the season. Jen and I stayed about half an hour away in a cottage at Ingleby Greenhow. It was close enough to Teesside to be convenient, but with the benefits of being out in the countryside. It also had an open fire so I was able to burn stuff, something that Travelodges tend to frown upon.

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We’ve been walking the Cleveland Way in stages for a couple of years now and on the morning of the match we slogged up a hill from the cottage to Battersby Moor, where we joined the trail and then covered a section to Kildale and back. I’d been hoping to spot a deer or two but over the course of eleven miles we saw nothing more exciting than a rabbit. Plenty of sheep and grouse, though.

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As Tom and I approached the Riverside that evening I noticed the Tuxedo Royale was moored next to the stadium again. It looks as if it someone has started scrapping it, a far cry from its days as a pre-match drinking venue where the barmaids would step in if the strippers didn’t turn up.

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The upper tier of the South Stand has sold out to season tickets this year and so Tom and I bought tickets for the lower section. I felt fairly confident of a result against Brentford. We’ve improved our team substantially from last season, particularly up front, whilst Brentford’s results to date suggest that they’ve gone backwards a bit. I wonder how long it will be before their owner realises that Mark Warburton hadn’t been doing such a bad job after all.

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We looked by far the better team, going a goal up early on before a mistake from Dimi let them back into the game. Two more goals in the second half, including a cracker from ‘back in the fold’ Albert Adomah secured the points and kept us up at the right end of the table.

 

Hellenic v Tshwane South College, Saturday 12th September 2015, 11.30am

September 13, 2015

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After spending some time in Swaziland Jen and I returned to South Africa for a few days at Kruger. I’m generally happy just driving around even if we don’t see much, but on this occasion we did pretty well for wildlife.

A fella passing by very kindly tipped us off about some lions a few kilometres away and whilst there were a few cars at the scene we were still able to get within a few metres for some photos.

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Later that day we stumbled across a spotted hyena and some cubs. They weren’t all her own judging by the variances in size but she kept an eye on them all despite the youngest looking to be no more than three weeks or so old. The next day we returned to the spot on a night drive and saw more of the clan.

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All too soon though it was time to head off to Pretoria for a flight back to the UK. I hadn’t been expecting to see any more football but as luck would have it we stumbled across a game whilst driving.

Hellenic FC seems to have had a chequered history. They were formed in 1964 but it looks as if they went bust for a while before having a successful season in the fourth tier a couple of years ago. Or maybe it was the fifth tier. It’s all a bit vague to be honest and I’m not actually sure that they even have a senior team at present.

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They do have an under seventeen team though and it was their match with Tshwane South College at the Belgrave Square Park that I called into. There’s not much to see stadium-wise, a brick building with the changing rooms down one side and a couple of small structures that I suppose you could call stands.

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The game was already into the second half with Hellanic two-one down but as I had stuff to do I only stayed for twenty minutes or so and can’t tell you how it ended up. Not that it matters. Still, it was pleasing to unexpectedly get to another ground.

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That’s it for the time being as far as African football is concerned. It’s been a fascinating couple of years with forty-six games spread over thirty-eight different stadiums and seven separate countries. The cricket and rugby have been pretty good too, whilst the time spent in the national parks and game reserves has been fantastic.

It looks as if Australia will be our location for the next couple of years, so hopefully the A-League is worth watching. Before that though we’ve got ten days in England with the Boro games against Brentford and Wolves to look forward to.

 

Swaziland v Malawi, Sunday 6th September 2015, 3pm

September 13, 2015

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After deciding to not go any further north into Mozambique than Inhambane, a few nights in Swaziland looked like a good idea. We stayed in the Ezulweni Valley which is between the main towns of Mbabane and Manzini.

Uzulweni is ideal for doing some walking as there are a few marked routes in the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. There’s nothing with big teeth in Mlilwane, apart I suppose, from crocodiles, but they seem scared of humans so I don’t really count them.

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There’s plenty of less dangerous stuff though and we got up close to impala and warthogs. We also found a bug that was easily noticeable whilst on the ground but had it been sat in the right coloured tree would have been very difficult to see.

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A couple of days before the game we hiked up to the 1,020m Nyonyane Peak. I don’t think a thousand metres is all that high in Swaziland, but it was good enough to give us decent views of the surrounding area.

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In the distance we could see the Somhlolo National Stadium in Lobamba that was hosting the Africa Cup of Nations qualifier between Swaziland and Malawi. I wouldn’t like to have to watch a game from our seats on the summit as it’s probably on a par with the view afforded to away fans at Newcastle.

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The build up to the game had been dominated by the position of the Swazi manager and one morning the two main Swazi newspapers had led their sports coverage with conflicting exclusives, one revealing that he had signed a new contract and the other announcing that he’d been fired.

He was still there on the day of the game so I’d recommend getting your news from The Times of Swaziland rather than the Swaziland Observer.

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Tickets for the game were E30 (£1.50) a pop and we bought a couple outside from a fella selling them from his car. I’ve no idea if he was official or not but with the game extremely unlikely to sell out I can’t see there being much scope for touting.

We took up seats in the North stand behind the goal, partly because we hadn’t sat there on our previous visit to the stadium earlier in the year and partly because if we looked to our right we could see the Nyonyane peak above the West stand.

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Malawi, in red, started the better of the teams when Phiri’s shot from the corner of the penalty box beat the Swazi goalie at his near post. The goal celebrations revealed that there were around thirty Malawi supporters in the West stand.

The home side levelled after a quarter of an hour when Malawi’s keeper hesitated over whether or not to come for a cross. He eventually made his mind up but then slipped and left Badenhorst a free header into an unguarded net.

The goal of the game came a few moments later when Msowoya put the visitors back in front with a bicycle kick that he’d teed up for himself. Very impressive.

At half-time there were still people arriving, many of them taking up positions in the new East stand to our left. A few fellas were standing on what remained of the open terracing in the corner, watching the game in the traditional way.

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Swaziland equalised in the second half with another unchallenged header and despite plenty of chances at either end that’s the way it stayed. One of the misses was so bad that a fan near us kicked out in frustration and sent his shoe flying.

At the final whistle the Malawi players slumped to the floor as if they’d just lost a cup final so I suspect that they had expected more than a point from the game.

Maxaquena v HCB Songo, Wednesday 19th August 2015, 3pm

September 11, 2015

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After Tom’s departure for England, Jen and I drove on to Mozambique. The initial plan had been to spend a couple of months driving through Southern Africa, but a job offer that required an earlier start date meant that the trip would be reduced to a three to four-week journey up to Malawi and then back down again through Zambia and Botswana.

The first eight-hour day of driving on the Mozambique roads was sufficient for us to revise the plan to a fortnight at the beach in Mozambique and then a week each in Swaziland and South Africa instead. It wasn’t that the roads were bad, Lesotho was certainly worse, but the traffic meant for slow progress and the Police speed checks would have had us bankrupt in no time.

I only drove on four days in total in Mozambique and was ‘ticketed’ on three of them. Twice when it was unclear what the speed limit was supposed to be and once when my South African number plates suggested a payday. By the third ‘offence’ I’d learned that by pointing out that I didn’t need any paperwork I could have a fifty percent discount on my ‘fine’.

We stayed on the coast, initially at Inhambane and then at Bilene. Both places provided ample opportunities for wandering around the beach watching fishermen and crabs.

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The football took place in Maputo, or rather in a suburb just outside of town. I felt quite lucky to have made the game, particularly as my previous two attempts had failed. On the first trip, a year or so ago, we had got no further than Johannesburg Airport where we were told that new visa rules prevented us setting off.

On the next trip, armed with the correct visas, a combination of an international weekend and some last-minute lower league cancellations meant that we didn’t get to a game.

Third time lucky though. There was a match scheduled at the Estadio do Maxaquene and I knew where that was. However, knowing the venue listed doesn’t necessarily mean that there will actually be a match there and when we turned up an hour or so before kick-off it was apparent that nobody had played there for a while.

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I asked around and was told that the game was actually taking place half an hour’s drive away at the Campo de Afrin. Fair enough. A taxi fare of 800 Meticais (thirteen quid) each way was negotiated and half an hour later we were there.

For a midweek afternoon game it certainly seemed busy enough. I suppose with the ground not having floodlights all the games would have to be over by tea-time, even the mid-week ones. There were lines of people outside selling food, drinks and replica shirts, whilst a steady stream of fans were going inside.

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Tickets were 100 Meticais and as our taxi driver had decided to wait for us we got him one as well. We sat behind the goal, as close as we could to a large palm tree in the hope that we might benefit from some shade. Most people made their way over to the main stand to our left, whilst the open terracing on the opposite side of the pitch was reasonably popular too.

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Maxaquena, in the blue and red stripes, started the game second in the table, whilst Songo, in the turquoise kit were a little lower down. The Mozambique season runs from March to November and so is currently about halfway through.

The right winger for Maxaquena was on the receiving end of some abuse from his own fans that made the old Ayresome Park Chicken Run look like a welcoming and supportive environment. I though some of the fans might come to blows over him, in what seemed to be a dispute over who would get to kick his head in first.

They were, however, all in agreement that the said player would be more at home as a sex worker rather than a footballer. As would his Mam.

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With a few minutes remaining and the light starting to fade Songo won a free-kick on the edge of the Maxaquena box. Someone curled it into the top corner to take the points and really give the home supporters something to cry about.

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Despite having been subbed by that stage, I imagine Bob the Puta still got most of the blame from the fans on the way out.

South Africa v New Zealand, Sunday 16th August 2015, 2pm

September 10, 2015

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The T20 game between South Africa and New Zealand in Pretoria just about brought Tom’s visit to South Africa to an end. After the rugby the previous weekend we’d spent most of the time in between up at Lake Jozini catching tiger fish. Before leaving Durban though we’d done some sea fishing. It’s the wrong time of year apparently for big fish but we caught some small stuff, including this sea barbel, and had an enjoyable morning not too far out from the shore.

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At Jozini Tom caught a different type of barbel, but it was tiger fish that we were after and we got quite a few of those too. The hooks were baited with frozen pilchards and a small piece of chicken liver. Probably around a third of the bites became successful strikes and some of the tiger fish were a decent size.

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We also had time for a drive around a wildlife park nearby and in what was looking to be a fairly quiet day spotted a group of four cheetahs. I don’t think Tom appreciated what a big deal cheetahs are but in the last two years  Jen and I have probably spent a few weeks in total in national parks and we’d not seen a single one.

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Back in Pretoria Tom and I were able to walk from our hotel to the T20 game at Centurion. We had grandstand seats which gave us the benefit of the shade and they were close enough to a bar to make the drinking easy.

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After watching South Africa’s innings we had a wander around the ground. I still love the idea that braais are encouraged to the extent that free fuel is provided. No way would people ever be allowed to light fires at a sporting event in England.

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Whilst our grandstand seats had been decent, it was good to watch the game from different vantage points. Most of the seating at Supersport Park is on the grassy banks and it creates a relaxed atmosphere where eating, drinking, kids playing their own cricket games and occasionally even sleeping goes on with the main event providing the backdrop and the reason for the day out.

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South Africa posted a decent total, but New Zealand never really threatened to come close. They did, at least, manage to bat out their full twenty overs in a much appreciated effort to avoid an early finish.

 

South Africa v Argentina, Saturday 8th August 2015, 5pm

September 9, 2015

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Id like to think I’m a pretty quiet person who doesn’t cause any annoyance to anyone. Maybe that’s not the case though. I remember being told off by Johnny Bramwell for talking at the back of a Kloot gig at The Knights in Middlesbrough a few years ago. That’s fair enough I suppose.

Mind you, he told me off at a more recent gig in Crewe as well for leaving before the end. Jen and I had been sat on a sofa right at the front of his Square One gig, but after being there for four hours and getting through a bottle of wine in each of those hours, I was feeling ready for bed.

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Apart from Johnny though, nobody ever tells me off. Except that is for the Afrikaner bloke in front of Tom and I at the Springboks game. Apparently we were laughing too much in our conversation. To be fair, the Kings Park Stadium was like a library, but it’s a rugby game! You go to the rugby for a drink and a laugh. We were only halfway through our first jugs as well, the miserable git.

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Considerate fellas that we are, Tom and I limited the laughing to whenever Argentina scored a try. Unfortunately for Mr Sensitive Hearing in front of us, that was far more frequently than the Springboks or the crowd had been expecting.

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I annoyed the old misery guts a bit more in the second half when I clambered over him to go for a piss, but it’s the rugby, there are generally more people in the toilets at Twickenham than there are in their seats.

He left just before the end, hopefully the Springbok defeat being responsible for his scowl rather than anything we’d done. If I see him at a Kloot gig someday I’ll buy him a beer and we can have a chat at the back.

Arsenal v PSV Eindhoven, Saturday 8th August 2015, 3pm

September 8, 2015

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I finished my contract in South Africa at the end of July, but as I didn’t have another job to go to we thought we might as well spend some more time in southern Africa until something turned up. My son, Tom, was heading over for a few days holiday in August and as we couldn’t go too far whilst we waited for him to arrive Jen and I headed off to Moloka National Park for a while.

Moloka was good. We stayed in a tree house well away from everyone else with just the various animals that visited the nearby waterhole for company.

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There was plenty of variety including rhinos, which we hadn’t realised were in the park. If we’d known we might not have spent a couple of hours wandering around the bush on foot in defiance of the rules. There were fighting squirrels too that were well worth watching.

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Driving around the Moloka made a pleasant change from some of the bigger, busier parks. I don’t think they allow day visitors and so there were very few other cars. There aren’t any lions or elephants so I suppose a lot of people probably wouldn’t be too keen to visit. One evening we saw meerkats and a bat-eared fox and as we hadn’t yet seen either of those creatures in the wild they trump any of the big five in my book.

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After Moloka we spent a couple of nights on a boat on the River Vaal. Whilst not as remote as the treehouse, we still had the river pretty much to ourselves and just tied up to some rushes in an inlet for the two nights. I did some fishing and caught a carp but as we had plenty of food I put it back.

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We picked up Tom from Johannesburg airport on Friday and drove across to Durban. Jen and I had been there a few times before but we’d always flown. The six-hour drive was fine until the final stages when the rush hour traffic seemed to start thirty miles outside of the city.

The plan for the Saturday had been to watch the Springboks take on Argentina but I’d noticed that the final of an Under 19 football tournament was scheduled for three o’clock in the Moses Mabhida stadium just across the road from the rugby ground. The five o’clock kick-off in the rugby meant that Tom and I had time to watch the first seventy minutes or so of the football first.

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The Durban Tournament is an annual under 19 competition with six top international sides (or rather five plus Celtic) joining the South African U19 National side and a Kwa-Zulu Natal Academy select in a week-long competition.

We’d timed our arrival to coincide with the final between Arsenal and PSV Eindhoven. I’d hoped for a decent crowd, partly because there were twenty thousand people arriving for the rugby who might just pop in, but mainly because Arsenal seem to have a decent fanbase in South Africa.

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Unfortunately the smattering of Arsenal shirts in the crowd was no more than I’d expect to see at a Chiefs or Pirates game and I doubt there were more than three hundred people in the stadium, despite the free admission.

A few rugby fans had wandered over, but by half-time had cleared off back to their car-park braai.

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Arsenal, with Steve Gatting coaching them, took the lead in the first half when one of their kids wellied it home from a good few yards outside of the box. The Dutch lads levelled after the break and it was still even when we left mid-way through the second half.

Whilst I haven’t got around to checking the score, I did see a photo in the paper a day or two later of Arsenal with the trophy so presumably they won it.

 

South Africa v New Zealand, Saturday 25th July 2015, 5pm

September 7, 2015

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The Four Nations Rugby Championship for the southern hemisphere teams was cut a bit short this season due to the World Cup and so there weren’t the usual home and away fixtures. Fortunately the single All-Blacks v Springboks game was scheduled for Ellis Park and so Jen and I had the opportunity of going along.

Just like last year we stayed in the Maboneng district, an area close enough to walk to the game but with plenty of restaurants that can also be walked to. That’s a rare event on an evening and we took full advantage with a visit to an Ethiopian place on the Friday night.

For a pre-match lunch on Saturday I ordered rib-eye steak, but what I think I actually got was a rib of beef. Either was it was pretty good. I’ll miss steaks like that when we’ve gone.

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We got to the ground early enough to be able to queue for beers. At one stage I think the line was around twenty yards long and four people wide. Best to buy your beers a few at a time then.

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As we sat with our drinks in the concourse, a couple of blokes in their seventies staggered past. One was in a New Zealand shirt, the other in the green of South Africa. They were so ratarsed that they relied upon each other to stay upright. I d like to think that I’ll still getting in that state when I’m their age.

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The game was sold out and we had lower tier tickets in one of the corners. The view was ok, certainly better than last year when we were up in the back row of the upper tier.

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South Africa were coming off a defeat to Australia and put a decent effort in against the visitors. They were leading going into the final stages but that rarely counts for anything against the All-Blacks who, as they so often do, nicked it at the death.

Twenty minutes after the final whistle we were in a roof-top bar making the most of an opportunity for a night out in town.