
Pesaro is a seaside town with an old centre and some interesting buildings. There wasn’t a great deal going on out of season, but it was fine for a wander around. On Sunday morning I stumbled across a flea market and whilst there were all sorts of things that I could easily have bought, I limited myself to a few records and a couple of table lamps which the fella had to rewire and, to my surprise, actually worked when I got home.

The main reason I’d picked Pesaro though was that there was a third-tier Serie C fixture on the Sunday evening at the Stadio Tonino Benelli. It’s home to Vis Pesaro, holds just under five thousand and is approaching its centenary, although it was tarted up around ten years ago.
It was an easy walk from my hotel and whilst I initially couldn’t find the entrance for my twenty-five euro seat in the Tribune Central, two friendly coppers were happy to give me directions.

Less friendly were the home fans drinking outside the ground. I’d taken what I thought was a discreet snapshot when I heard shouting. I ignored it until it got so loud that I had to turn around. By that time a couple of fellas had run up the street to tell me that it was forbidden to photograph ‘ultras’. They demanded that I delete the evidence of their existence with the sort of whinging usually reserved for when their Mam’s don’t serve spaghetti hoops for tea.
I made a show of deleting a picture, safe in the knowledge that I’d another couple of shots in the bank and went on my way.

Once inside I bought a proper espresso for a euro and was given a free team sheet and a two page A2 programme. Most people used them as protection from the pigeon shit on the seats. At half time I got myself a Heineken, just because I could, and took pleasure in drinking it at my seat.
I was in the stand that catered for old people and kids. The away fans from Carrarese were penned in to my right and the main home singing section, including those whose souls I had captured and now owned, was opposite.

This was a promotion clash with Pesaro in sixth and Carrerese two places above. Both teams managed to hit the bar and the keepers acquitted themselves well but ultimately neither side could make the breakthrough and it finished goalless.
Tags: Italian men who still live at their Mam's, proper coffee at the football, Specketty hups
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